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Just leave the tdm unplugged till it’s replaced and drive it

Start with thermostatic switch...most likely the culprit, won’t open when hot.

Is your fan clutch engaging? Very common for most of these m1045’s and m1123’s to have frozen and inop fan clutch’s from sitting for 9hrs in the desert. Have you unplugged your TDM to see if it engages and defaults to locked on? These A2’s run at 220 all day long...only had one or 2 that ran at...

All late model A2 and Turbo motors have the “Hook style” front support....if I do a starter on an A0/A1’s truck, I Install the new style bracket, makes installing the starter a breeze compared to the old style.

Let me chime in here....I did the conversion. the starter and all it’s components came on the motor. When a bendix fails, continued operation will chip teeth, as in this scenario. It’s a simple starter change out and flex plate replacement, all done pretty simply while in the truck, have done...

I would only buy pads from HPG, Kascar or MAC motors. rotors are same as an H1 hummer 1992-2004

Stick with buying from Kascar, HPG or MAC Motor’s...that is unless you know what to look for. I call BS on the “it shipped from somewhere else”

F there are a few variations of Pittman and idler...one way to tell is the angle of the zirk fitting. but yes...many many knock offs on the market.

You bought a chinese knock off from eBay? Those are set to open at the wrong temp. order from HPG or Kascar and get the correct OEM switch.

Immediate shutoff is usually a bad connection or bad fuel cutoff solenoid. Also make sure the 2 wires aren’t reversed, one is a cold advance switch and will turn off 24v as soon as the engine gets above 120 degrees. the plug for the cold advance has ribs on the rubber plug

1. The procedure is the same 2. Remote PS reservoir equipped trucks from the facorty whine, some better, some worse then others. I own 7 of them, they all whine, have only had one or 2 trucks that were relatively quiet. 3. Static steering stop test fails w/new style pump, you have to be rolling...

Your pump is bad...you can’t clean that pump the way it needs to be cleaned without it being completely taken apart. Then you have seals, o-rings etc that are bad, and more importantly a worn rotor head. It also sounds as if your fuel cutoff solenoid is bad or shorted, thus the reason the truck...

Have you installed a new or rebuilt injection pump? You say you cleaned the pump, that’s not going to fix anything internally wrong with the pump.

Oh, and per HPG’s website on PS pumps: IMPORTANT NOTE: AFTERMARKET POWER STEERING PUMPS WILL NOT APPLY ENOUGH PRESSURE FOR THE HUMMER DUE TO THE COMBINATION OF THE HYDROBOOST SETUP AND THE STEERING/BRAKING WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY. AM GENERAL USED A SPECIAL POWER STEERING PUMP NOT FOUND IN...

New style pump is for serpentine belt setup only the pump you need is an RCSK18330

There are 30/50 pintles and just .30 pintles....you want a 30/50 pintle. this was done because a .50 uses an M3 tripod and an M1919 uses an M2 tripod.

There res is no gasket required on the Diff cover, just liberal amount of RTV. The plug, it over tightened previously, will distort the taper, thread sealant or new cover is the fix. this is quite common.

Pretty simple to visually see a 4L80e trans...big wiring connector on drivers side and TISS/TOSS connectors. Are the fluid lines on the passenger side 3in apart or 18in apart? That will tell you if it’s post or pre 97.

A faulty kick down switch on the pump will prevent 3rd gear....

Remove all padding, pressure wash the inside, pressure wash the mats or buy new ones. I use the floor paid retainers sparingly, or nor at all, the pads and dirt, now mud...trap moisture. by not securing them to the floor, you can peel them back and let things dry out.