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Brake light on dash comes on with low pressure in the proportioning valve....

Call them to verify they have it and it’s acceptable...you can also email the EUC dept again asking for verification. The automated updates don’t seem to work very well on the USMC trucks.

I drive so many of these truck I’m able to see the differences in fan clutch operation. what is 100% is that none seem to be identical. I have a truck or 2 that when hey engage, it’s like “****!” clean underwear needed, and then others that just make a nice smooth transition, what I’m most...

Just reach in with a small pry bar and pop the arm off the pivot...the wiper pivot assys are broken or will be on most of the MAK trucks, they had wiper arm extensions on them that are just about impossible to remove so you have to replace the pivot assys, I just did 3 trucks. The extensions...

On second thought...that is an early 100/200, so it may be correct, I can’t tell from the pics. it would be wrong for a current 200amp setup. I need to look in the shop, I think I have an early one like that.

Your regulator is installed backwards...the 14v tap should be pointed forward, your data plate will read upside down to you when installed correctly. Your cannon plugs ar wrong as well from what I can see Because the regulator is backwards.

Im a stock kinda guy, I would call a reputable diesel rebuilder.

That’s a 100/200 setup,you should have output of 28.5 at the positive output stud of the generator, no output? Bad regulator most likely.

250-300HP out of a 6.5 Diesel? I think you mean foot lbs of torque! LoL 165-175 is NA HP rating, 195-210 for turbo motor, mind you, this is stock...

When checking any battery connection, user needs to grab and attempt to loosen by hand any battery connection, if it moves in anyway, it too loose. I generally replace all 4 of the battery terminals on all the trucks I get in and clean everything up, as well as secure the batteries with the...

You haven’t said want Generator you have, but 60amp charges through the EESS box. when you stop getting charge at the batteries but output at the Gen, it’s generally the back gone bad with burnt wiring internally.

Lol, you have to agree, I do this 7 days a week and literally talk customers out of this monthly. That take out drivetrain has your trans, Tcase, down pipe and many more parts you would have to buy. Even if the blown motor is free, it makes no difference.

Waste of time and money when you can buy complete GEP drivetrains for $3k

So, that looks normal for an A2, I have about 7 of them, they all run right there, but your fan should engage right there. if the TDM is unplugged, it should get to 200-210 contant as the fan is locked on. have you changed that gauge out? Definitely change the thermostatic switch, if you had a...

That’s it, easier to call them, ask for Mike or Ron.

Get rid of the cheap keyed ignition switch, it’s the number 1 problem I see in the shop, these cheap POS are not rated for 24v. Put your old one in, get a 2 position switch and tap off the run switch, you will now turn the key the energize the run lead only, leave the key in the on position for...

I’m glad it worked out...what are your cooling issues?

Also, part numbers change a lot, the NSN’s don’t, many many mfgs use different part number for same part, you can see them in the NSN lookup. The correct t-stat has the rubber.

A simple call to Kascar or HPG will bear out what I’m saying. look in the TM, item 1 is listed twice, one for 6.2, the other as 6.5 and 6.5 turbo. I stock them in the shop... while it may work, can’t tell you...I use the 24p

That 6.5 in your M1045 does not use the same thermostat as a 6.2, the 6.5 and 6.5 Turbo motor use a 12551497.