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Sorry, no Sir..., actually needing some for my own restorations so this was a good opportunity for me to measure one OEM, to have some repros made locally. No big deal... possibly stainless.
G.
.... besides all the work to flip them around, un-modified - simple: caster angle will change from about +1º/+2º to +10º/+11º...(!) and we have an extremely stable vehicle at the price of excessive front end driveline angle and way to much steering effort!
Instead, I recommend removing just...
HEMTT wheels are almost twice the weight of a stock Deuce wheel AND they come pretty much unbalanced...! That alone could cause all the bouncing but... it normally gets worse at 40mph and up.... can you feel what is called "wheel shimmy"? What TP were you running?
Balancing (at least...
See it here.... not a drawing but still clear enough, I hope....
The assembly pictured came out of a gov. rebuilt winch, never used since that. All it needed was some general TLC plus replacing a rusty detent ball and spring. Shift lever works flawlessly now, at correct angles so I must...
See your wheels here:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/22722-combat-rims-m35s.html#post233860
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/22722-combat-rims-m35s-2.html#post234271
G.
Any progress on this........? Ty, Chris, Mike, others......???
FWIW I have fresh pics/info available from another conversion but wouldn't want to start yet another thread on the same subject. Would rather wait for such a compilation to be created and then gladly contribute, if possible....
G.
pictures borrowed from other members here.....
Backspace for HEMTT wheels is 8 7/8", mounted as shown (left pic),
while the 900series wheel's (right pic) backspace should be around 10 1/2"...? (Anyone please correct/ confirm...)
Centerplate thickness:
HEMTT, 2 halves @ 3/8"each = .75" total...
OEM plug valves, glad hand
I know I have posted this before but couldn't find it now......
Most of the times the original plug valves can be restored to like-new condition. The most difficult part is to disassemble them, since there is that small pin securing the handle to the core (plug)...
You mean no X = no springs..., yes, saw that too, it's just a mistake in that chart there.
See TM9-2910-226-34, page B-23 and B-24. It shows application for three different springs along all models. LDT would be part#SP9043, same as LD.
G.
You seem to have nailed it.......!
Again from the books: ALL model engines use the same part#10899107 rocker arm for the exhaust valves. Code C,D, E and G engines (LDTs, LDs and LDS 427 resp.) also have these for the intake valves, BUT.....
Code A, B and F engines (the 5ton Multifuel's) show...
No way.
From the books: part numbers for crank, cam and timing gears....
2815-177-9209 GEAR, CAMSHAFT TIMER: 10889822
3020-311-5332 GEAR, HELICAL: CRANKSHAFT 10889820
2815-808-6989 CRANKSHAFT, ENGINE: 11610173
2815-808-6978 CAMSHAFT,ENGINE: 11610283
ALL model engines including the LDS427...
Difference is that OEM hood handles are 3/8" round stock instead of 1/2" and a bit wider, with center to center distance being 5 3/8" vs. 4 1/2" for the frame "handles" or tie downs.
I made my own very close to original specs but reinforcement plates are a little wider... (original is only 1...
Two good ones:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/45000-more-questions-ideas-related-fording-kits.html
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/35967-building-my-water-fording-system-questions.html
G.
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