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I would post pics of how you have your pump plumbed from the pump to the Hydro booster and Cadillac valve.

Your PS pump went out...rcsk18330 part number

24volts till the GL timer expires, then about 4-5volts for 2 mins, this is basically after glow, or what they refer to as "glow plug tip temp control". In the old EESS the lights would pulse and the volt meter would dip for 2 min... you have have at least 1 GP plugged in to test...if you find...

thermostwic switch in the left water cross over....that's where the temp reading is taken from and allows or denies 24v to the TDM....common fail point.

GD...I suggest calling my shop before purchase, we have titled trucks in stock here in the Bay Area.....

Hummer H1 has the Condensor on the cooling stack....from 92-2006

You need to know if you have the new or old "D" beam installed...the new trucks have a thicker "D" beam. so there 2 styles of wire guards, old and new.

To each his own, but why you wouldn't just put the motor in as is puzzles me....other then a minor body cut, it will drop right in. i would also use the serpentine setup, it's easier to maintain and more options available. seems you can find someone who would trade you straight across for...

The engine cover is where the MMA "Maine military authority" plate is, that's who did the reset....the B-pliable gets the MWO's and other various plates such as overhaul data plate. I have fully reset trucks with no plates, maybe just MWO plates...so no hard and fast. But the trucks clearly went...

the MMA reset plate is below that date in your pic, that date is the date the truck was repainted CARC, usually at the same time reset was done.

6.2 and 6.5 NA never suffered from a #8 cylinder issue....that was only Turbo GM blocks from 9X-2000. GEP fixed the casting issues once they were purchased by AM General

clearly you have a case of the a**, but bobbed deuces were prototypes for the XM381, do your home work.

Im quite relaxed...and no half will not be released to the public.

that makes 2 of us!!! until a Mod chimes in...I'm not sure why if you post in the M35/deuce forum something about turning up an IJ pump for more power and they move it to the "hot rodding" forum, but the HMMWV forum is "whatever the F**k"

There are numerous part numbers for all the insulation, mostly due to the seating changes. I jut bought several thousand in various stock for the shop, the left fronts are pretty much gone. I can get 10ft rolls of the OEM pad in green, black or Tan, then I cut them to fit, it makes an awesome...

The direction this topic has taken is why there needs to be a separate section for "bubba your truck". Look, for all you FNG's who maybe just in the last couple months decided to get a hmmwv, a lot of us old timers have been here doing Military vehicles for many years. To Us, our job is to...

The horn is is a tactical horn...the idea is that you can't be heard for miles around.

I buy my motors from southern metals, just as many many others are...I've had no issues and the motors are tagged with the mileage as they came out of the running trucks. There are plenty of places on the east coast to buy these motors, TNJ Murray comes to mind, Eastern surplus etc...I'm sure...

Let me clarify...not that they won't fit, It's not a bolt right up conversion for the exhaust manifolds to the exhaust tubes that connect to the turbo. Sorry....I don't do bubba work, if I want a turbo, I put A turbo motor in...anything can be made to work...just not what we do at RWH. You could...

I don't use a pan gasket, nor does the mfg...clean it real good and use liberal amounts of rtv, especially in the rear and front.