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This is what the tail piece looks like on the 242

There is no such thing as an A0, it is called a BASIC, there will be no suffix on a basic, IE M998 not M998A1. But because it was rebuilt in 2008 it possibly has a NP242 transfer case because by then the NP218 was no longer available, it might have a 6.5L in it also easy to ID looking at the way...

I'm not sure where the split is but I have a 92 and a 93 and they are both basic (A0) trucks

If it has a slip yoke on the rear shaft it is a NP-242, if not it is a NP-218.

I run an AirDog on my Duramax, it is way overkill for the Detroit as the Detroit does not have problems with aerated fuel like the high pressure common fuel rail engines. A low pressure Raptor and a good filter is more than enough for the Detroit. I ended up settling on 10-12 PSI, any higher it...

It would have taken just a few hours to pull the stack and have full access, besides you would have been able to check/clean up the stack.;)

Is there a "will work" tool to use to re-clock the audio connectors on the VRC-12 radios" Or possibly a source for the original tool?, I can find a picture of it but cannot find the part number. THANKS!!!

The fact is unless your M1123 had ABS it had DOT 5 in it and was marked so, since you cannot mix the two, in fact a complete rebuild of the system is recommended when switching between the glycol based and silicone based fluids and vice versa, he screwed up big time and now your complete brake...

I don't see any corrosion, just mud Besides no brake system can go without maintenance

Reliability IS the selling point of DOT 5, DOT 3 absorbs water and becomes corrosive

One error I see is DOT 4 does not have a higher boiling point than DOT 5

I will be willing to bet any vehicle that sat for 10-20 years with DOT 3 in it needs a complete brake overhaul, that is why the military uses DOT 5 Oh yes, what moron labeled a glycol based brake fluid DOT 5.1?????

Sounds like BS to me. It is going to be expensive to completely flush that system, all the stuff that comes out must be disposed of.

But if you are sure the solenoid is bad (measures open with an ohm meter) than here are a couple places I found that are reasonable. https://www.accuratediesel.com/store/p/298-Injection-pump-solenoid-Stanadyne-26387-24-Volt.html...

That is what putting the 90PSI is for so you can release the clutch and line up the cap screws behind the 4 holes.

OK I think see, you do not have the clearance to remove the fan so you are trying to pull the front off of the clutch? Sorry can't help you there.

I think you are going to have to remove the fan before the clutch. Not sure what 1/2" you are talking about please post us some pictures. The 90PSI releases the clutch not engage it. If you are talking about the nut in the center of the clutch that will not get it apart.

If you hear it click the solenoid is not bad, it is more likely you have an IP problem. turn the run switch to run plug and unplug the most forward wire on the IP and see if it clicks. If it does click then sometimes you can pop the top off of the IP and see in the linkage is stuck. This takes a...

It is not a good idea to ever use starting fluid on a high compression diesel.

Welcome to the forum!!