Search results

Well then there is only two things that it could be, lack of power to the IP run solenoid or you are loosing fuel. Again, have you replaced the fuel filter, all the rubber fuel lines and removed the check valves in front of the fuel tank?

I suppose it is possible you have the cold advance wire and the run wire reversed on the IP so when it does warm up it shuts off power the the cold advance (which if reversed actually shuts off power to the run solenoid) The run wire, 54A should be connected to the most forward connector on the IP

You could have a missing drive shaft, a broken or "loose" half shaft, rather unlikely but possibly a bad transfer case, any number of possibilities. But no they do not walk on water, my experience is they do well on sand, better than the average Unimog but a Unimog smokes the HMMWV bigtime in mud.

Just find someone with a winch. The N is neutral, the L is low range locked they are two different shift points.

Remove your fuel cap and try it again.

This is where it would have been real handy to actually read the operator TM, there is no NL position. Also as stated above BTM (brake throttle modulation) may be helpful, but yes if you are in HL or L you should be pulling on both axles. Recovery can be very expensive, going with folks that are...

Just the basics, replaced the filter? cleaned the fuel tank/pickup screen? removed the check valves? Cranking for 20 sec is too long as you will fry the starter. If you open the filter drain valve and crank the engine does fuel come out?

Yes but it is not valid

Others may have some good sources but the only ones I have had luck with are the factory OEM ones from AMG or one of their vendors. I have tried several "aftermarket" ones and none have worked. If the original ones are not damaged they can be re-used. When you consider how much work is involved...

If you have a good picture of it and the dimensions there are Chicom printers on FleaBay that will make them for you, I had some FAV decals made from a pic I found on the NET and was very pleased it takes a while 3-4 weeks

Great job!! That is still strange that the OEM flashers blew up like that, at the end of the day if you have working flashers that is all that matters!!!

I guess that answers your question then.

Like he said, there are 4 cap (allen head) screws that will line up with the 4 holes, you will probably have to put about 90psi on the clutch fitting to release the clutch then carefully align the cap screws with the holes and remove the air.

Even though the 47RE has only 4 gears the top gear is not that much different than the Allison 1000 .69 for the 47RE and .61 for the Allison. Every Cummins/HMMWV conversion I have actually seen (youtube certified) had the Allison. I would think if I can stuff a A1000 in the 47RE should not be a...

It's ALWAYS something!!!

It is because the 6.5L was all that was available, the 6.2L had been discontinued just like the NP218 transfer case, all the three speeds remained three speeds as there would have been too many other changes that would have to take place, diffs, half shafts, geared hubs, and many other things...

If a bonded title will work then go for it, I have done a bonded title in Texas and other than a few hoops to jump through it was no sweat. Hopefully someone from AR will jump in with some useful suggestions, but as far as your OP you have a 2005 and there does not seem to be any way to prove...

I do not mean to sound harsh but that was research that would have been best to do before buying a 2005, just 7 more years to go......

You are probably going to have to register it as a 2005, when the military had them rebuilt they got a new build date and that is what will be on your SF97 The original serial number along with when it was originally built is gone, you did bid on a 2005 yes?

If you have abnormal wear on the back of the belt I would also vote a possible bad idler