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Yep, about 10 seconds!:LOL::ROFLMAO:

So I tried the RT-246 in the MT-1029 base and still have the same issue in remote so now I am not sure if the radio has a problem or the lack of connected ancillary equipment is the problem.

Seems like ALLOT of work to avoid removing 2 screws...

I saw a vid once that showed a guy setting up but not using a "wheel winch" it was pretty obvious it was not going to work. He did not have enough bend in the rebar to insure the rope would feed between the wheel and bar, the problem is if the bar had enough bend to work it would not fit through...

Man that is some awesome work on that VIC-1 system, VERY-VERY nice!! I don't have the patience or skill to do that level of work.

I picked up this breakout box off of Fleabay so I could test my radios with about 20lb shed in the form of the mounting base and when they are not in the vehicle. Everything works fine except on the RT246, if I put the radio in auto channel select or press the tune button is rolls down to min...

Just put one on each end. Edit, 12K hydro on front 12K electric on rear.

The low side is always going to read high when the compressor is not running, you will need to replace the freon you blew out, I have never seen an ac get too much freon unless someone puts it there. You should be able to go through the schematics and figure out where the circuit is disrupted...

The system has to have freon in it to work, have you put gauges on it?

I also forgot, I am not familiar with your boom cylinders but many load carrying cylinders have "checks" built into them to prevent the load from falling if a hose breaks, they would also need to be defeated. For example my Bobcat has those checks in the boom cylinders and there is a cap crew...

Just about any cylinder can be re-sealed without removing the barrel if you have clearance to work with it. You do have to break the hose fittings loose so air can get in (and fluid out) and allow you to pull the ram out otherwise it will be hydro-locked.

Yes, possibly, there is a charge pump in the IP that will try to pull fuel. If you did not pull the plate and grease the pump rod there is a 99% chance you broke the pump rod, it slides down inside the area the pump bolts up to when you pull the pump, if you did not address that the rod is again...

If you did not pull the cover behind the fuel pump, grease the pump rod and then put it back together than you likely broke the pump rod when you reinstalled the pump, common newbie mistake

When you replaced the fuel pump did you remove the plate behind the pump, remove and grease the push rod so it would stay up in the block before installing the new pump?

Some issues can be, plugged fuel screen in the tank, the for-mentioned check valves, bad fuel pump, plugged fuel filter, leaking (sucking air) fuel lines (would be before the fuel pump) If you do not have some flow from the fuel filter drain while cranking or running it is no bueno

Then it is definitely a fuel issue, you are not getting a good fuel supply to the IP.

Again does it surge or rev up a little just before it dies or is it just like shutting the run switch off.

Jumping threads is not going to help, the cold advance is not the problem, if it would start then immediately die maybe but not going to be your problem in AZ in the summertime. But to answer the question it should have 24V when stone cold in the run position.

Does it surge or rev up a little just before it dies or is it just like shutting off the switch?

It likely has nothing to do with actual heat, the engine cannot get overheated in 10 minuits as long as it is full of water, it takes a long time to actually warm up.