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That's it! Never used anything else.... Just fill with grease and top off with a nice plug of toiletpaper! Then take a big hammer and drive in any piece of 3/4" round stock or bolt! That old bushing will pop out right away!
G.
The correct one is the #308ZNR. Z stands for shielded on one side only, that is facing the inner side, opposite to the groove & snap-ring (might want to check this very old thread here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?4026-m35-tranny-input-shaft.html
I think the shield is there...
Looking at the pics.... : besides having replaced the original clevis pin with a common 1/2" hex bolt which came out to short for a nylock nut...., it also looks like it was overtightened, that way compressing the rod's clevis and restricting lateral (horizontal) movement. The resulting binding...
Well, everything you described still makes me think that somehow you got water inside the knuckle. You can check this by pulling one of the 4 bolts holding the lower kingpin sleave in place. See what comes out...
G.
Are we still guessing what that blind hole is for...?
What about a 1/2"-13 threaded stud as pivot for the lever which is part of the shift linkage between transmission and the T-136-21 Sprag TC? Knowingly that linkage is obsolete if the T-136-27 Air shift TC is used...
G.
Yes, replace the bearings now and leave the seal in place since that is not the cause of the problem! Water is certainly coming in from the knuckle side, between spindle and axle shaft, probably due to a ripped or rotten boot!
You need to service that soon if you don't want to replace wheel...
TM 9-2320-386-24-1-1, section VIII.
It has not a complete wiring diagram but it does cover every single detail of everything electrical.
What are looking for, specifically?
G.
Wow, that really looks ss (= stupid simple)! Wonder how it would compare to a typical flow-through glass-pack of same outer dimensions, regarding db reduction...?
(Guess its my turn now to do some research...)
Yes, I meant the lower support tube, from the vertical post to the bracket on the...
Looks to be 7" O.D..... impressive performance for such a short muffler!
Wonder how its built, if you say it has no glass- or rock wool in the outer jacket?
Any reason you also left out the lower (bent) tube....?
Thanks for taking the time to measure db before and after!
G.
:ditto:
...... and no matter what model turbo it has!
To my knowledge only the LDS465 Multifuel engine takes the "-1A" so most probably it is one! Originally that motor was equipped to fit the 5ton but they have put many of them into Deuces as well. It really makes a difference, well worth 1K...
Yes, with CON-VEL axle shafts (6 bearing balls), after very slight machining mods I managed to actually reduce turning radius by little over 4' (34' -> 30')
Both stop bolts were shortened about 1/2" to allow increasing the st. knuckle angle - straight ahead to stop-bolt contact - from stock =...
...So probably your engine didn't come from factory with the SAE#2 bellhousing and a nice 17.5" O.D. flywheel to accept a 14" clutch disk & pressure plate....? :smile:
Because that's all we need, plus a SAE#2 to #3 adapter ring, to mate our Spicer 3053, and of course keeping the stock throw-out...
From the catalog: Precision #315G Premium, #245 Super-Strenght non-greasable, #246 Super-Strenght, greasable.
Or any equivalent from other brands.
Also, just replaced one with SPICER 5-1306X (greasable)
G.
I think A3's only came with this new "floating" seat and no other option.
Basically it's the same principle as the earlier version: adjustable spring pre-load and a non-adjustable shock absorber.
They might perform better and it also appears that the rear cushion does not need that...
Sorry no pics, since I have not done that mod. yet. But if you had access to the A3's TM 9-2320-386-24P, fig. 135 - 137 are showing all the details and description of parts for the (new version-)springer seat vs 3-point safety belts, including the mentioned additional safety straps and the...
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