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The issue with blades breaking is the drover not adhering to correct fording practices....not a so called brittle fan blade. the TM calls for the operator slowly enter the water after fully depressing the accelerator, the full depression eganges the fan disconnect t switch for 30secs, this is...

Ship your truck to my shop...I will take care of it. :)

All the markings are visible with a flashlight...the triangles are visible from the rear directly under the IJ pump. it does help to clean whatever garbage and crap out of the vallley to expose the markings.

New style....

Probably the thermal flasher unit or maybe the switch lever....I have the same issue with my M1097. Its intermittent. Haven't swapped anything yet.

There are 2 types of 242 for the HMMWV...the 242 was an MWO to replace the 218. I've seen them installed with and without the lock lamp from whom ever installed them. Take a pic of the tailshadt where the drive shaft exits. the newer style has a 4 bolt tail shaft housing, the early model has a 3...

the digital light switch is not authorized for use in the HMMWV due to issues pointed out...the 3 lever switch is still standard issue on new HMMWV's.

Did you buy NOS US mfg or Chinese knock off? The aftermarket versions I have found have a higher fail rate out of the box.

This thing about cracked blocks folks was a turbo issue guys...not the NA. Yes the GEP is a better block, but NA's didn't suffer from the #8 cylinder crack issue. Just drive the truck till it blows, that's really all you can do. to tell if it's a GEP block, look for the diamond under the...

That's a 6.5

Let me add... I just bought a truck that has no date of delivery....

Thats becasue the tabs were removed to install a previous electronic light switch most likely....I have a truck here same way.

You guys can't get to wrapped up in data plates...you have no idea what was done during reset. im sure a lot of you saw the 2004 m998's with 6.2's in them. If a data plate was removed and re-riveted on, they use the same holes. The trucks have been outside in the wheather for years since reset...

That's a rebuild motor data plate...take a look at the tach drive embossment, which was does the bolts face? Left or right...it's on the rear center of the block.

One would think, but as I stated, they want me to pay for the R&D. I can give them the factory AC vents from an M1151 to reproduce for less then 750.00 OEM cost, but they tell me over and over to utiltize what they currently mfg....not ideal for what I'm trying to accomplish. One would think...

And have you seen the price of that unit?

So far, my research and phone calls have pretty much yielded COTS "commercial off the shelf" solutions. I was told "and I pretty much already knew this" I would have to fund the R&D for the prototypes, I would need to have a market analysis of the target consumer. So in the end, it was using...

Pull all your glow plugs, make sure they aren't fried first, that is unless you have another EESS laying around you can swap in first....

It most likely will not be, so it would require an alternator upgrade as I stated in the OP. I will make all attempts on a 24v unit, I just don't hold out much hope, let alone the 12v version. But this is just in its infancy at this point.

I just don't know at this point how cold it will blow compared to a red dot unit, but I'm willing to live with a less efficient unit so I don't have to loose a sh*t ton of real estate to the red dot gear. they already make under dash units, the question will be, what if any unit that's already...