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In the TM section...

If they are NOS, they will have no holes...you get to drill them, as do most of the panels on the truck when NOS. shoot me a PM on what body parts you might have...fenders included, that is if you are in the market to sell.

thats your problem...get radials. The bias ply get flat spots when they sit and it's cold....goes away when tire heats up.

thats just a grease seal...why tires do you have on the truck? Are they Bias ply?

Bad starter...solenoid most likely. Shimmed wrong or bad bendix gear.

Of course it's surplus...the parts and trucks came due too being surplused due to age and other various factors. i buy parts everyday for the business...part prices are better now than at any time in history...don't let the price of tops and doors be the guiding factor...it's supply and demand...

GP will not use ANY turn in paperwork from the Govt as a way to determine condition for resale...at least that is what I was told by GP. not sure what you were expecting....it said does not run right? Whenever I see that, I ALWAYS assume the motor is toast, this way, when it's something simple...

There is no way to know what was wrong internally to that engine until it was taken apart....unless you had a rod literally sticking out of the oil pan. The Govt don't rebuild motors at the unit level...it's sent to the proper level of maint to have the engine removed, and a new or rebuilt...

You cannot use that turbo on a non/turbo block....the turbo block has an oil supply hole and mount cast into the rear of the block to mount that turbo....you can make a turbo block NA, but you can't make an NA block turbo....

Figured it out? we told you what part to replace...LOL its amazing how simple some fixes can be..that's an easy one...the part replacement that is...

Oh....and do not use starting fluid on this motor.

It's impsossible to state it's this or that...because at least at minimum 3 things can be wrong, 1 or all 3.. glow plugs are toast, bad TSU, bad EESS box...plugs could have been good, but bad EESS took them out, box can be fine, but the constant jumping could have toasted 1 or all 3 of...

Installed new 2:73 diffs front and rear. E-brake MWO applied to truck....new rotors, pad, half shafts....the full Monty.

He says it's not leaking...one of 4 things, brakes need bleeding,hydroboost, mast cyl, bad proportioning....it's a pretty simple brake system,quite basic....

You are correct...the mil rim requires it as the lip on the rim is not a standard lip that will lock the bead, thus the run flat is a bead lock as well...if you go with no run flat, it should have bead locks...personally and through many many years experience on road and off....I will always...

Truck should just start and run with no issues...I change them all the time. they aren't easy though....that arm needs to be set correctly on the shaft, so you may need to remove the plate as well. take the rod out and load it up with grease to hold it in the up position...if done wrong the rod...

Just lightly sand it...wash and then paint over it.

Put the milemarker in and no worries...

Replaced a red dot compressor with a newer style pan cake compressor today...oh what fun that was.

Your fuel pump diaphragm is bad, the vent on the pump goes to your hubs, diffs,trans and tcase and terminated in the air filter...the one behind the coolant bottle is a fuel tank vent, it's not part of the above...I would replace your fuel pump.