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I guess it would depend on your interpretation of harsh. I've driven many of these trucks both for the National Guard and ones in private hands. They all had a pretty hard shift going into second and even more so coming to a stop and downshifting to 1st. I'm not saying there is nothing wrong...
I did as the tm advises. Raise wheel so that it can roll and tighten until it stops. Back off adjusting bolt enough to allow it to roll freely, go to other side and repeat. When I first hooked the airline to it, it had no brakes, and the master was dry. I topped off and bled the brake...
I should have added that they release normally when you ease off the brakes, they just lock up way before the trucks brakes are working that hard. I also have roughly 400 pounds of parts in the bed of the M105.
I've had a M105A2 for a few years now. When I got it, the brake hoses and surge tank were not on the trailer. Since I only pull it with the Deuce, I figured I didn't need them. I recently decided to fix the brakes. I simply ran a line from the actuator / master cylinder to the trucks service...
I lost by a landslide and I didn't see a vote by you for any truck. I'm merely playing dramatic due to the folks playing politics in the last few posts. I could actually care less, I was out of this race about 7 days ago but you're right, Sarge is a sweet truck. He's just too small to compete...
My truck got smoked. Let's see, an original Museum quality CUCV, mine, got killed by a restored CUCV and the Winner is a barely touched but nicely painted truck in the bigger truck category? Maybe folks do think CUCV's are chock blocks. CUCV crowd, where are ya'll at? Ya'll raised cain about...
Both my truck and trailer covers have been on for about 4 years now and have traveled probably 5 to 6 thousand miles in that time without issue. I don't take them off and I'm on 11's and routinely run at 50-55 mph. I see that I should add that they are both vinyl.
Does the air gauge have an alternate source of power that you know of? I don't even see wires going to mine but you never know on this military stuff, they may be ahead of their time, I remember when they had to remove alot of trucks for possible radioactive gauges.
CNKILLERCLOWN, We're trying to fix your issue and I'm with you as we should have some answers soon. I'm glad to know that maybe my truck is OK with taking 10 to 15 minutes to move the temperature gauge up. Maybe I need to get a mechanical gauge for that as well as the electrical system on...
My gauges in my truck are having trouble now. When I switch mine on, the oil pressure and temp are bottomed out to 0. Fuel level somehow goes to 1/2 or better depending on when I last topped off on fuel. When I start it, the tach jumps to 800 rpm but that's a mechanical gauge, the air...
I'm trying to understand how electrical circuits work. My understanding is that if you want something to move, you need to create a path from positive power to a ground or neutral to create a movement or transfer of power of some sorts. The gauge is sitting at 0 when no power is added to the...
There is a cut in the insulation of the wire providing a short straight to ground or you have a bad sending unit with an internal short. To determine which it is, unplug the wire from the sending unit and at the gauge end and using an ohm meter, check for continuity to ground. If that passes...
I'm still campaigning for my truck. I just looked at the polls and in the words of the fictional character Cam Brady from the movie ¨The Campaign¨, I'll tell you right now though, I'm so angry by seeing that, I wish I could go out and punch that baby again¨ You're welcome for your daily...
Sharecropper, someone told me earlier that a CUCV would win this month and it looks like you are on you're way to doing that. I've watched the thread on the restoration and upgrades of your truck and if you're still in the lead toward the end, I'll vote for you. I am also going to campaign and...
I put a C on my truck which came with a D. I've got a new D as in NOS (new old stock, never installed) that I will trade to a buddy of mine who want's a D turbo when we do the swap for the C that is on his truck. For a used C with no idea of the history or usage, I'd only be around 50 bucks...
Sounds like the injectors need going through. The black smoke at idle is the symptom for me. Some are releasing too early causing overfueling on those cylinders and starving fuel to the others which is causing black smoke and loping at idle. You're IP is likely fine.
That's cool, I don't have even 1 vote. Makes me wonder how great this truck is and why there was such a fuss about me wanting to lift it and put bigger tires on it. Oh Well, it's worth alot to my youngest and to heck with the voting process.
Please do not forget to loosen the inner nut 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn after torquing to 50 foot pounds while someone turns the drum. I do 150 on the outer nut as called for in the TM but 200 can't hurt.
I have a buddy who is 6,3 or 6,4 that uses an A2 as a daily driver with a box seat. It has no rebound and he's fine with it and loves the truck. I guess the other question in response would be, do you want the truck? I'll offer an Olive Branch of sorts. I ran short of time helping a buddy...
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