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Now I have actually heard of "molyslip" before. It's suppose to be a high lubricity additive. All the people that I know who have used it, have said it's a great product. Tonight I researched "molyslip" a bit and found it has a lot of people who think it is garbage. So I don't know what to say...

What he said ! /\ /\ . I usually tighten the inner nut to about 150 to 200 ft Ibs of torque to be sure the bearings are totally seated. That's what we do at the transit agency. Then back off until there is no pressure on the bearings, then just apply a little bit of pressure until you feel it...

I like NAPA also. The problem here is the employees at the local store are lazy idiots! Several times I had to look-up the part myself. I have to go to the next town to get competent help ! Now the other store has been hiring high school kids and letting go the older more knowledgeable people ...

I haven't had any experience with these new "nano" additives. So I cannot give you my opinion on them. Sorry about that. Maybe one of the engineers on this site can enlighten us. I know there are several that are "Chemical" engineers here. After rereading that I can see some "moderator" thinking...

I would love to go wheeling with you anytime ! To bad your clear on the other side of the continent though. :sad: My wife always gives me dirty looks in church ! Usually because I'm sleeping through the sermon. :shrugs:

He used A/C shims for the Ford compressor I believe. Pretty hard to get. I talked with him about it a few years ago.

Buy the factory "brace" rod. "gmpartsgiant.com" has them for $33.00 . Part #14020856 .

I believe I miss-read your post. Sorry about that. As far as the TM's go, they can have several errors in them. That is one reason I prefer to use the "factory" manuals whenever possible. Those are almost always correct.

No Dutchguy you are "not" the only one to rebuild one of these units. From my "factory" service manual when I rebuilt these things back in the day, you can see that the 3rd gear retainer bushing is "pressed" on. Now if yours is lose then your shaft or bushing is worn out. Yes I'm being a little...

Yeah, that is pretty grimy ! Looks like it has been leaking gear oil on it for awhile.

I've used several like "ZDDP" and others that have zinc and sulfur. I usually go with the cheapest price as they all have about the same amount of product. You can actually go overboard with the zinc. It really doesn't take much to help the cam.

If I could afford one that would be a great combination ! Actually the 5.9 Cummins with an 1000/2000 series "Allison" !!! :drool:

Hope it is not the one we got stuck on the beach at Pendelton ! That one was exposed to some serious salt water !

The "383 Hi-Torque" is a factory crate engine. The "HT" 383 stands for Hi-Torque . I bought it from the Chevy dealership. It has a roller cam, forged crankshaft and came complete minus the exhaust manifolds and distributor. It is a "truck" engine according to the Chevy brochure. It cost me...

The "383 Hi-Torque" has tremendous pulling power so you don't need to get your foot into the throttle so much for one. At highway speeds I can get up to 27mpg empty and 20 to 24mpg (depending on the terrain) pulling my trailer. It's all in the "cam" and that extra length of connecting rod for...

I converted mine several years ago . I installed a "383 Hi-Torque" in it. I kept the TH400 and the NP205 transfer case. I replaced the factory wiring with a used harness from the local junk yard. I kept the large radiator and just had to use an adapter for the upper hose. I rerouted the...

Hey ! You've got a lot of knowledge to share ! Don't let age get you down ! Your only as old as your mind thinks you are ! Since I cannot remember how old I am most of the time I lean towards the young side ! :grin:

I would actually prefer "lethal injection" to hanging. I've always felt hanging was very barbaric ! :)

Boy, that's a hard one. Something like you have is a "one of a kind" vehicle. So I would add up all your hours and multiply by $50.00 (average pay for a metal fabricator, at least around here) . Then calculate the cost of parts and add that. That will give you a rough estimate for the insurance...

Yeah. I believe now after tearing into all these pumps you had the correct solution all along. Unless I had actually seen it on several pumps I would not have believed the plunger could stick like that. Now I know better. I should have listened to your years of experience here "Floridianson" ...