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Well it should come as no surprise that it wouldn’t start with #1 at tdc and the spark occurring at #4. Easiest is just change the plug wires to match the distributor, more difficult is to properly time the oil pump to the distributor, I would only do that if you are using stock shielded...
I bought a fork lift from them with “Ironclad assurance”, supposedly fully operational, when it arrived, numerous hydraulic components were smashed and the main mast cylinder was frozen, GP told me “Oh sorry, see the fine print, hydraulics not covered by our Ironclad bs assurance”. As far as I...
That seems like it would eliminate any circuits outside the cab. Try unplugging the brake light switches and jumping past them to see if that changes anything.
Unplug the turn signal switch and see if the breaker still trips when you hit the brakes. I think that is where the brake light feed is interrupted so you get directionals when brakes are applied. Could be a short in the switch.
You will need to do some archeology to figure that out. Start by locating all the drilled holes in the rear area of the Jeep, and posting pictures or a diagram of them. Then we can let you know what sets would be mounted in those locations. A1's mounted a multitude of radio sets.
Maybe reconnect one wire at a time to the brake switches and see which wire causes the short? Maybe one wire engages the exhaust brake and the other the brake lights? Just guessing, sorry, my fmtvs are older.
You will get better results using the “hive” on here, have him relay to you EXACT SYMPTOMS and whether or not he is working on a crappy Ft Polk rebuild or not.
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