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I just PM'd you his contact info

There is someone on this forum that has some aftermarket ones he'd like to sell. I'll PM you his contact info.

For those interested here is what the inside of the CT looks like. Based on what I see the wires from the individual CT's to the terminals could vibrate and fracture due to wire vibration of the CT itself vibrating.

Was it the black device with 8 leads that cracked or was it the black device with 3 leads that cracked?

Are you sure it's burned out? The brown you see inside is probably just the conformal coating on the board and wires. One supplier that people have been able to buy them from is Quantum Controls. People in the past have been able to buy them for $75 from them. Here is the contact info for the...

24 volt DC power for most of the 24 volt circuits in the set all flow they CR1. If CR1 goes bad you lose all 24 volt power to the panel, relays, start switch and much more. Failure of CR1 is kind of common. I suspect it's a bit under sized for everything it has to power. Just had a customers...

Looking at the TM I *think* doing the following will allow you to get the set started temporarily without an S1 switch. ** Do this at your own risk ** ** Warning ** doing this will bypass the Fault Monitor and the set will NOT shut down due to ANY fault such as... Low/No Oil Pressure, Overload...

The main switch is a MS27407-2 Found them in stock at Master Electronics for $32.25 Master Switch S1 Other distributors list them too The switch isn't your average toggle switch. The contacts open and close in a unique way needed to clear the sets Fault logic until the set is started.

Ooooohh... God luck finding a good one. They're like hens teeth. One option if you don't find and inverter in to yank the PMA & Inverter and put in a conventional generator head. I just finished up doing that swap for a fellow S.S. member on his 831. I also installed one of my new custom...

Governor Controller

See my signature line for link to much less expensive Governor controller modules for the 831

I'll be away from my computer for a few hours. Will be back on later.

OK, check CR4 terminal 1 for +24 V with S1 in the START position. Terminal 1 is the right terminal. CR4 in the bottom components on the parts panel in the back left. If you get 24 volts there then check the left terminal of CR4 for 24 volts with S1 in the START position.

OK now see if there is 24 volts DC at TB6-8 with S1 in the START position. Verify TB6-8 has 3 wires to it. Two on one terminal and one on the other.

Here is how the 24 volts gets from S1-7 to to CR4-1. S1-7 -------------wire # 190a ----------------TB6-8--------------wire # 190C-----------------CR4-1

If CR4 Terminal 1 doesn't have any voltage the problem is not CR4. Problem is the 24 volts DC isn't getting from S1-7 to CR4-1 or S1-7 doesn't have 24 volts DC on it when S1 in held in the start position. Did you verify that S1-7 has 24 volts DC on it with S1 held in the START position?

Looks like Guyfang is away from his computer so I'll give you some suggestions No DC voltage at VR terminals 1 & 3 with S1 held in the START position indicates there is a problem with the Flashing circuit in the set. I'd suggest the following to start and find out why. Try the following tests...

I believe he should be looking at pins 1 & 3 on the VR for the Flashing voltage. 7 & 8 would be for the 802/803 ;-)

I'd imagine it would fail when one of it's windings develops and open circuit. That would cause the %Load meter to cease working for that specific phase. No moving parts but it could be due to a latent manufacturing defect. Also heat stress or breakdown it's housing to causing it to distort or...

I noticed a few things.. The recoil start rope and handle are missing. The rope may be inside the recoil starter. You are missing the AUX fuel pump. The two wires that should go the the Primary Fuel Pump and two for the the intake heaters normally are routed behind the engine. Might want to...