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I would like to see a pic sideways with how much room but. Wash down the head with brake cleaner cut off the plastic line at the fitting and unscrew the fitting from the head maybe.
You need to bypass the FDC so just install synflex push fitting at the head and one at the final fuel filter run...
What would you guys think about a dump truck load of fire wood delivered. I have a call made to a company that is getting me a price. This would be not split and what ever the length. The only problem I see is people don't seem to gather around one place but have there own little parties going...
Thanks to Gimpyrobb aka Chris. There is the easy way to find correct TDC on the harmonic balancer than taking off the valve cover if we are just checking timing.
Take off the oil fill cap and look for the valve that is just forward of the fill hole. You should just be able to see the #2 exhaust...
No you want to leave it in the shut down position. That way if the fuel control sticks it won't be sticking at WOT.
Also if one was to leave the transmission in gear and the truck got a hard bump it could start and run down the road.
Also the correct starting is to leave the engine shut down...
So happy four you as my fingers were getting tired.
To answer why the are three marks /white paint on the advance timing disc. From reading when they put the IP on the test stand they use the advance window and rotate the unit just bit to each point and measure when the injection begins to drip...
As said you will use the middle mark on the advance window (four bolt plate) for correct timing. Gimpyrobb found the fast way to find correct TDC. Take off the oil filler cap and when the crank is on TDC pointer the # 2 exhaust will be open. When you look down the oil filler cap it will be the...
Your making me think to much and it hurts will you please read the Troubleshooting the 465-1
In there they tell you if you are just installing the IP into the motor then we line up the beginning of the white line on the advance window pointer and the Head scribe plus IP pointer will be inline...
It would be the center line as per tm don't know why it looks like three lines but maybe that where they started and ended the paint mark. As said just look over the Troubleshooting manual.
I had to correct my post as I am loosing my mind but yes the correct timing the tooth should be just about a tooth off to the rear. Everyone I have done comes out to be as the picture in the TM's 3/4 off to the rear when the other timing marks are correct. My only point we have people doing...
I carry one of these and a cheater pipe and never let me down. You can find them cheaper but no moving parts no batteries.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200338981_200338981
As you said the scribe/red mark tooth on head when it is on it's mark then we are ok to remove the Head. But correct timing is crank TDC advance window on it's mark then Head one tooth to the rear so it is used to check timing.
OK thanks had to think about it but head/quill shaft is controlled buy the governor. I believe what you are saying the governor spring pushes the advance while the spring is hooked up.
Correct timing is crank is on it's mark TDC. Four bolt advanced window on IP is on it's mark and the Head scribe mark and it's pointer will look to be one tooth off to the rear. Yes with the shut down cover off the fuel control linkage will be forward with engine off or maybe 7 o'clock and with...
My 915A2 has a small data on the drivers door with full numbers then there is another plate on the dash and says CARC and the full set of numbers. I order parts using the last six of that number and have no trouble getting parts from Freightliner. Yes they are FLD120's and I had no trouble...
Trying to understand. spring pushing on piston red mark fly buy. Is the plunger and it's spring what you are talking about and what is fly buy the other mark. I never had it fly buy as I believe the only thing that can move the Head rotation is the quill shaft. The scribe mark and it's pointer...
Yea I would line it up by looking down the IP hole and someone else turn the crank. Still say transmission 5th transfer case neutral and a small pry bar in between the U joint is what I do. I like my small aliment bar for this but what ever way you find to just ease the quill shaft a hair one...
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