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Even the M44 is too long. I tried.

Its supposed to move so it doesn't suck air when you drive at an angle and the fluid sloshes back and forth. Lets it follow the fluid.

52" spring swap is for flex... not sure what you are asking. A set of stock replacement lift springs to match the shackle flip would probably serve you better. 52" springs aren't guaranteed for a certain amount of lift. You may end up doing a shackle flip and notice the front is an inch lower...

A proper lift includes pinion angle correction and high angle drivelines. You can have whatever approach angle you want, what is 'right' for you doesn't mean squat to the next guy.

If the spacers were solid steel, I could see them being a temporary fix. Aluminum wheel components do not handle rocks and shock loads very well. I've seen aluminum rims and spacers shatter. I've also seen all the lug nuts snapped off a hub... spacers are streetable, not off-roadable. I would...

Removable mud flaps are easier than a removable bumper, lol. Anything over 24" requires 'anti-spray devices' in most states. Get rid of the sway bar, and ditch the wheel spacers if you want to go off-road. If you have issues with backspacing, get different rims. Shock boots trap water and crud...

Or a rag between the gears.

Power steering belt, they'll do that when they get wet.

6.2 has plenty of power to dig out the deep holes :mrgreen: We all went around that hole after that, lol.

Into what? Dana 60 will bolt into whatever you have, no modifications other than maybe a conversion u-joint. A 14bff from a 1 ton pickup has differen't spring perch spacing than 3/4 ton and below, have to cut them off and weld new ones on. Also may need a conversion u-joint. I don't have the...

I run the 'HD' filter with the foam ring...works great for extra protection from water splashing on the air cleaner if you do a lot of water crossings during your offroad adventures. (Flipping the air cleaner around backwards helps too.)

This^ Highest gear made for Dana 60 was 3.54, and 3.21 for the 14B so we automatically know your gears won't match. You can do either one, but you definitely won't be able to use 4wd without blowing something up. Axles aren't held on by much, I don't think you need instructions. Remove drive...

If it doesn't vibrate and doesn't wander... don't mess with it.

You have to push the belt all the way behind the crank pulley and PS pulley and work it on from behind them, it's **** near impossible to force it on from the front of the pulley. Belts stretch, thats why its so hard to get on the first time.

No comparison, I'm running 42" tires and pushing 6300lbs. My IP is in tip top shape.

The output seal is probably fine, the yoke has its own o-ring so it doesn't leak fluid around the splines. Most people use RTV under the nut, because a new o-ring is hard to find. Looks something like this.

A lot of roads here are 35-45mph if you stay off the highway. The highest MPG I've gotten out of my monster was 19 sticking to the backroads, thats running at about 1700RPM. I average 12 otherwise, thats a mix of highway (65) and city (25-45) which really kills the MPG potential. A friend of...

Yep, definitely have to do that. Will give you a chance to clean the tank out while you're at it.

I heard in Australia they turn the opposite direction.

We still have our CUCV's in the motor pool. Only one that gets used occasionally is the ambulance. I want them all.