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It is what Barman said... the glow plugs are still operating. The noise you hear is the glow plug relay, sometimes they 'chatter' a bit when disengaging.

I think you are seeing the vent caps...

Disassemble the pintle hitch components from the M1009, clean them up, then bolt them to an M1008. Done. :-P

I presume you know that is a scam, right?

Two things... GEN 1 shares the heater blower circuit. That may account for the strange readings. Secondly, the blower motor speed switch is known to have issues with poor connections, sometimes resulting in melted parts and magic smoke. I'd suggest pulling the speed fan speed switch and checking...

The heater core could be plugged up, might try flushing it. Or, perhaps the PO replaced the heater core with an aftermarket one. Some of the aftermarket cores are thinner than the stock core, and unless installed properly, air can go around them, rather than through them.

I like the seat covers from Jatonka... http://www.jatonkam35s.com/CUCVM1009seatcovers.htm

I'm confused then... it says he joined Jan of 17, and the thread is brand new...

Maybe your truck was one of the motor pool training vehicles for new privates? :-) Seriously, finding the proper cable has been an issue for many... the lengths of the aftermarket cables seem to vary, even though they 'fit the application'...

No diag wire ( tach output ) on GEN 2, passenger alt. The exciter wires should go to the GEN 2 relay under the dash, and the GEN 2 light in the instrument cluster... I believe...

Still hoping for a remote-mount option for these lights... :-)

The TMs for the CUCVs are in the TM section of this site.

Have you done as DH suggested and measured the voltage at the starter? Both with the key off, and with the key in the crank position? Replacing the glow plug controller is just guessing, and besides that, it has nothing to do with the starter engaging. I think taking a meter and looking over...

When you say they measured 12v on the tester, was this a load tester ( and that the load was engaged during the reading ) or just a voltmeter?

The starter relay under the dash sits near the stock radio location. Perhaps a connector came loose, or if the doghead mod has been done, a terminal shorted causing a blown fuse of fusible link.

This would be a good time to follow the glow plug system troubleshooting guide in the -20 TM. That way, with your new glow plugs, you can be sure the system is working correctly and not risk burning up the new glow plugs. A voltmeter and 30 minutes time is about all that is needed.

There are rebuild kits available for the original pump. It is primarily the rubber parts. Mine had a broken wire to the activation solenoid/coil and that you are on your own to fix. Otherwise, you can take your chances with an auto parts store reman windshield wiper motor / washer pump. The...

It might help to reference the glow plug system troubleshooting guide in the -20 TM. That should help pin down where the problem is.

I don't know that I'd call it a bad design, just one that fit the build budget. I'm sure it worked great when it was brand new, all the connections were clean and tight, etc. I don't think any auto manufacture builds their product to run forever, meet all possible demands, etc. They build them...

The buzz, or flutter, is not uncommon. I'd suggest looking at the glow plug troubleshooting section in the -20TM. My guess would be that the temp sensor is going bad.