Search results

Yes, but he mentioned not having any room to work. It may be easier to run a new line than to pull the existing line out to cut/flare it right.

If the line is leaking you need to run a new line. There is nothing that will fit over the existing line and hold a good seal short of cutting out the bad section and patching in new stuff. Running a new line will be easier than trying to patch it anyway.

Avoid the Fram products as much as possible. They are cheap for a reason. Expect 6-8 quarts of transmission fluid for a drain and refill, more if you plan to flush it out. The GM additive is not required for the front axle (open diff) and you will want to make sure to do a close inspection of...

The bearing hubs and bearings are compatible, but not the same. It would change the WMS dimensions to do that swap (many guys use the 14FF hubs on the D70 to make them 3" wider).

Those pics are of the DIY4X rear bumper. However there are always cheaper ways of building your own if you have any fab skills.

Never put a flywheel in front of an automatic. It is very difficult to hook up a clutch to a torque converter ;)

I would be more worried about mold growing in the 8 year old fuel than it being gelled. Worst case for either one is a plugged up fuel filter at first, then eventually IP damage as you running more and more and the filter starts to bypass.

There is also this kind of option... http://joelrasmus.com/gallery/d/15744-3/DSC_2613.JPG http://joelrasmus.com/gallery/d/15750-3/DSC_2615.JPG

If you can't get it to start on Either, you have issues other than an IP. Is the motor turning over slow? That would be the only reason a healthy motor could not start on either.

Also, if you get the wider aftermarket wheels you won't have problems with tires rubbing on the steering components. My truck is running HMMV 37" tires on 16.5 x 19.75 steel wheels.

Yes and yes. It will still start, but run a little rougher while cold.

No. That would not be accurate.

Main thing is the "intent to defraud" portion. If you disclose the fact that the odometer is not reading actual mileage your in the clear. 90% of CUCV's would reset at 100K miles anyway due to the stock odo not having the 100,000 digit.

Most of the gauges would be grounded at the sending unit. I'm not sure if the dummy lights work the same or not.

Next place to check would be the fuseable links. Sounds like you have one burnt out.

Pull the plug off of the black out switch and test for 12V coming in at that point.

No, any aftermarket wheel with the 8 on 6.5 pattern is going to work. As far as backspacing, that will depend on what size wheel/tire you plan to run. In a 15" wheel you won't be able to use much backspacing without a lot of grinding. In a 16-16.5" wheel you can run up to 4.75" backspacing (and...

Tell them you need seals for a TH400 (turbo 400) with an NP208 tcase. They can be found in any 1 ton mid 80's Chevy K30 4x4. Don't use a K5 if they want make/model info since that would get you 700R4 parts if they look up a civilian model. Front pump seal, front pump gasket, transmission pan...

If you can put a spin on filter on the fuel filter base (Available from '82-83 Chevy/GMC's with a 6.2L or even better aftermarket versions), then you have the best available. The square filter style used on the CUCV's are prone to problems with leaking.

I really wouldn't want to run it that way. With the vibration and torque of the diesel motor I'm sure there was a reason GM added more bolts. You know they wouldn't do it if they could save $1 per unit over a few million units.