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From master switch, jumping from 11 power to 13 and 17, pumps run. Bad switch? 24v on terminal 11 and 25. All other points are dead on S1. Master switch. Is master switch bad? The S1 has internal jumpers, so as Ray said, yes, bad switch. Thats why I posted the picture. If the S1 is in the AUX...

What you need to do is start a thread for each generator. There is no way you can try and troubleshoot more that one set at a time, or in in a thread. Its simply not possible to remember it all.

What TM?

Lets go to school here. See S1. It is the Start/run/Aux and stop switch. Push in CB2. Turn the S1 to the run position. Check from ground to pins 13-14 on the S1. You should have 24 VDC. If you do, then check from ground to TB5-7. You should have 24 VDC. If you do, check from ground to the 2...

Ray wrote: If you were measuring 24V at the cannon plug with the switch on and none of the pumps were running and then you put 24V to the pump directly from the battery and both pumps ran, then either the cannon plugs weren't making a connection, ( And this happens a lot. People take the plug...

GOOD QUESTION. If I get a 24V reading at the quick connect running from the unit, what is the difference when running directly from bat. + to the plug? (None. The pump works.) As you say that can create a problem, but why would I not have a problem with 24V from the plug to the pump? It's 24V...

Since the pump ran with wire from bat. +, does that mean the capacitor is working also? YES!

I'm pretty sure it will. (No it wont) I believe the float deenergizes the valve. Correct. The float deenergizes the Valve. If the valve is deenergized, then the AUX pump can not pump, BUT ITS STILL ENERGIZED.

So what thread should I nuke?

Lookin GREAT!

Any update on this? Did the custom part get made and work? I am in need of a solution too Then I would suggest you submit a "Parts Wanted" thread or maybe send Liquid Level a mail yourself. The solicitation of part requests in an open thread is not allowed.

This doesn't look like a part i have ever seen on this type trailer.

The SP 2199 is the correct one for that holder.

You wrote: Remember this genset only has 45 hours on it and it had not been touch as far as I can tell until I found those rat chewed wires. If you believe this, i have some water front property in Upper Mongolia you might want to buy. NEVER assume anything.

You should start a Parts Wanted thread for the S280. You get more visibility.

As much as you will not care to hear this, the best way to check a switch is to take all the wires off the darn thing. Remove it and i would put it in a vice so it wont move. Then check it. Tip. If you do this, take a wire off and then tighten the screw up. Not hard, just a little bit firm...

@Mullaney ?

After checking for 24 volts at the female E-Pump plug, if you have 24 VDC take a wire and jump from the positive battery terminal to the male E-Pump plug. If it wont run, the problem might be the RFI capacitor. Cut it out of the cable and splice the cut off cable back on the wire that goes to...

What kind of project are you engaged in?

I am not home right now, but will be soon. Another member and i are working on a comprehensive M38/M38A1 TM list. Hang on a while. ALSO, There is in the TM forum a list of TM's that you can download.