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These Hutchinson 3-piece runflats are asymmetric. The one side has a 1-2" nose on the center, and the other side is basically flat. Which way does that nose face? (I'm not talking about the additional rubber rings.)

Thanks that worked. The layers of paint made it look like one piece.

So I got the valve and hose disconnected from the valve stem. How do I get this valve stem off? It turns, but hits the rim by a lot, so I can't turn it without bending the valve stem quite a bit (as seen in the picture below). Guidance?

This is the design right out of the back of the manual (plus some changes to make it printable). While this is partly an experiment, I'd also rather have the tools before I take them apart then get it all disassembled and then find out I can finish the job easily until I do. This was printed...

Someone already did order some, and they weren't able to fit. He emailed me pictures, and I've been trying to help him figure out how to cut/modify them to work. The bracket holes aren't even close enough together to start overlapping yet. I assume he'll post here at some point.

Thanks. Also, that 17 hour print number is on "draft mode", 0.3mm layer height. At more normal settings (0.15-0.2mm) it would take over 2x that long, maybe 36 hours, but I just wanted to see if it would be feasible.

Yes, they fit on the FMTV trucks, just not the trailers (trailer bushings have the same outer dimensions, but the bar is significantly smaller in diameter).

I figured I'd try 3D printing one of the seal drivers, since I'm about to take the front axle apart. It came out pretty good. It's within 0.005" on dimensions, and seems pretty tough (I printed it 90% infill... basically solid). This took me an hour or two to design up from the prints and tweak...

Thank you. So I take the hose off the elbow, leaving only the elbow on there, then unscrew the elbow from valve stem. If I happen to break the valve stem, is it a common or easily replaceable part? Also, Suprman, I have 5 of our "new style" valves (the kind with the black plastic coated tubing...

How is the CTIS valve attached to the rim? It's not clear in the TMs, or from looking at it. It almost looks like it's just pressed in (e.g. no place for a wrench, no snap rings or fasteners, etc.). I just want to know before I try to take it apart and break it.

Was it intended for someone to open the kneeling valve with a screwdriver/tool? I don't understand what it was supposed to do.

I noticed the "new style" air hoses don't have this "kneeling valve" part (it looks like they just have an elbow). Any idea why they can do without it? Is the valve different?

Good info here. Any other mounting pics? I'm looking to do this soon.

It wasn't a dig on you. I was merely making a PSA to "trust, but verify". I find so much incorrect information around here (that's part of the reason I maintain my own parts list and other documents, because I know they were actually checked). YouTube has a "save for later" function that is...

I was about to ask the same thing. I went and looked the picture up in the TM -24P and was confused because it looks nothing like that N4400B (it's a bunch of individual pieces, not one solid thing). I find that you really have to triple check everything people say. Whenever a part or fix...

I think that might be the thing people have called the "kneeling valve". Maybe try searching for that.

Do you plan to fix your site's search box?

Side question that I'll go look up, but maybe somebody knows in the meantime... is the annual service procedure in the TM, or some other document?

That's not the same thing. This is a big socket used for taking off the spindle nut inside the hub, to take the hub off the spindle.

If you bought it new, it's probably several hundred dollars worth of parts. They usually sell as NOS for just a couple hundred bucks. So it could be a significant savings if you will use most/all of the parts.