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If some people are running them in their LMTVs, I'll be happy to consider it. I'm purposely trying to move beyond the theoretical "I think this should work", and find some things that "This worked in my LMTV" or "This didn't work in my LMTV". Lots of people have talked about the theoretical...
I see in your videos that you are often out adventuring, but then also back in the shop. What does that schedule look like for you? Are you out on the road for a few weeks, then back for a couple days?
I've made a little progress. After a couple hours of searching, this PDF https://brightoncromwell.com/default/includes/themes/Cromwell/assets/img/pdf/MKCatalog-2015.pdf says the contents are (no part numbers though)...
Item #
Description
Kit Qty
1
FILTER ELEMENT, FLUID
4
2
O-RING
4
3...
I have read those (I have the links saved), but there no threads that I've seen that talk about it later. I'm curious if the airsoft pellets break down, or the ball bearings make metal dust, etc.
I'm not really trying to prove whether they work. We can't use regular balancing compounds with the CTIS, so some people have tried other materials and I'm curious what the long term reports are.
Who has some long term experience with tire balancing compounds on the FMTV? I know we've had discussions about putting airsoft pellets or ball bearings in the tire, but who has actually done it, and what are your results?
I'm getting ready to change tires, so now is the time to decide.
Is there a way to look up the part numbers contained in one of those LMTV annual service kits, from the NSN number (2590-01-528-7243)? I need to do some hub seal replacement, and they seem like a decent deal for the stuff pictured, if it's the stuff I need.
I have a pair of these Australian "Tyrepliers", which I've used to great success on my regular 4x4 rims. The pair I have don't adjust large enough for LMTV wheels, but they sell an extension leg for them that will allow them to reach. I'm hoping to try them when I change my tires soon. The...
Does the "GOV" in the part number specify that it is special? Deeper than a standard OTC1913?
I see commercial ones about 4" deep are easily available? Will those work too?
Does anybody have more info about the socket/tool needed to tighten the spindle nut? What size is it? Part number to buy one somewhere?
I don't see a drawing to make one in the back of the manual, nor do I see a part number called out anywhere.
Thanks!
I printed a thin section of the whole shape, and held it up to the real metal cover to verify bolt hole accuracy. Looks pretty good.
I also printed a single pin-cap section about 3" wide, with a reinforcement "X" over the pin cutout, at 80% infill density. The thing is stupid strong... you...
Sgt Jiggins' experience certainly seems atypical, and not worth basing the decision on. If every locker was destroyed within a tank of gas, they would never have kept being made. So the vast majority of people who have them clearly get the expected long service lives out of them.
Not...
I don't know. I'll start fairly minimized, like in the picture. If it flexes, I'll add reinforcement ribs, and try again. If that doesn't work, I'll fill the area over the pins in solid, and it will be quite strong.
That would be great if it's the right length. Ø1.625" might be able to be squeezed on there. I can't find that part number in any of Energy Suspension's catalogs or online search.
Pretty accurately. I have a part here on my desk (the inclinometer mount, from my other post) that is modeled at 6.900" wide, and the printed part measures 6.887" (0.013" undersized, across a nearly 7" span). Another face across it that is at an awkward angle (more challenging to print...
Not having done this myself before...
1.) Why would you want to not have the o-rings on?
2.) Why would you only need 2, and not 4, caps?
I have one of the stock metal caps with the face milled off. That's what I measured to make this.
Here is a truncated one, to fit my printer (8" across...
Installing gears and lockers is a bunch of work, but isn't too far beyond mechanically inclined people. In simplified terms, you put the gears in there, smear the teeth with colored grease, look at the wear pattern in the grease as you turn them, take it back apart and adjust, then repeat...
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