Search results

This diagram might help...

We did this off and on for weeks, the set failed for no apparent reason several months later. There is nothing mentioned in the TMs about problems with un-balanced loading, but it's worth investigating. Thanks for your comments.

We used the "convenience" outlet for all 120VAC needs and it has a 15-amp fuse, which never blew The welder was a wire feed type, don't know the rating...the circular saw and the miter saw could be close to 15A, though. For this use, there was nothing connected to the 240VAC output.

Yes, they are, the "wheel seals" reference wasn't very specific, sorry.

The H-250 is for the "outside control box" for the VIC-1 system. It has the 5-pin connector and also works with the C-2298 "crew" boxes..should have an extra to sell somewhere...

Hmm...have 4ea of these that could be considered "wheel seals"...

Could you expand on this, possibly? My mep018a 10KW genset head "burned out" after some 25 hours of good performance (over a 6-months period) and I have assumed that it was due to a handfull of dirt and gravel discovered inside, but perhaps it was as a result of imbalanced loading. We often...

My '69 Ford xm757...

That would be this thread... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/ga-rally/73802-official-2011-ss-ga-rally-info-thread.html

For highway driving, earplugs is a must, always use them and the buzzer can still be heard for turn signal indication or "low air". For "low air", I have an interrupter and the buzz, buzz, buzz noise is not nearly as disturbing as the constant buzz sound.

Yeah, and in direct sunlight it can't be seen so I simply removed mine...used a diode connection to the low air buzzer and now I loud buzz reminds me...

This is my stencil, height due to the K-boom.

Yeah, I'm aware that my post above is not pertinent to the current discussion, but it points out some of the shortcomings of the original engine as recognized by the manufacturer at the time, like overrevving problems and they weren't looking for a lot of extra horsepower, just gained some by...

Depends on how the cables are supported. If they can follow along as the batteries move about, there shouldn't be a problem. Make it a habit to check the battery connections before cranking the engine.

Jonathan, dielectric compound (grease) serves a purpose when used, say on a light bulb socket prior to installation. The grease will allow metal to metal contact when the socket is installed (it's displaced) and protects the remaining surfaces from corrosion.

The turn signal indicator bulb is grounded via the mounting strap (hose clamp?) to the steering wheel column, so make sure you also have a good ground connection for it while you are at it.

Drain and rinse the fuel tank before anything else if there is any sign of dirt or water in it. The multifuel engine/IP is very sensitive to dirt... Try to use fuel filters with original micron spec, 40, 5 and 5 for primary, secondary and final respectively.

FWIW. What Continental did to improve the LDS for the 1969 M656 8x8 series trucks (rated 200 BHP at 2,800 rpm): 1) Partial load fuel control mechanism in the IP to prevent engine from putting out full power during shifting (auto trans). 2) Increased capacity oil cooler. 3) Increased inside...

Clean it up and see if you still have a good seating surface. If not compromised/molten, it's a good chance the insides is still in good condition IMHO. If you can drill and tap about 1/2 inch into the cleaned up post, install a replacement.

Used on the m50 water tanker version of the deuce...