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Here is a start, PS Magazine Issue 252.

I have the 206-20 (1966 w/ C1 and C2 changes), which I never refer to. Shipping weight is 3 lb. PM me if interested...

A leaky flame heater will put fuel into the intake manifold (which can also be bad), but has no connection with the oil pan...

You are welcome. The schematic was prepared for an MVM article back in 2004 (Issue #101) if you want to read about the particulars...

Here you go.

What's the NSN?

IMHO, keep the terminals clean and tight. What makes an electrical connection good is a good metal to metal contact. Typical crimped terminals are "gas tight" and last for decades (with the correct crimping tool). Problem with lead-acid battery terminals are the relatively low clamping pressure...

The threads pull the contact together, the new post against the finished flat old surface. The threads don't have to carry any current for it to work.

If you don't have the slightest hint of smoke out the exhaust pipe while cranking, then you have a fuel delivery problem. You have to remove the cover for the fuel cut-off rod (seen in image #1 above) to check to see if the internal linkage is stuck... it is spring loaded. Other problems could...

Diesel generators "wet stack" when operated below full power, may just take a few hours (?) of running to "clear the pipes"...

A ruined battery post is not uncommon, I have melted my fair share over the years. They can be repaired, though. Get a replacement post from NAPA, drill, tap, install replacement and continue to use your battery. The best result, I would imagine, since I haven't done this, is to use a mold and...

They are picky, see calibration charts, but consume little. I use a separate fuel tank (Jerry can) to make sure they get nothing but clean diesel or kerosene....also separate batteries so that the start battery won't run down, since one of the outstanding features of the heater is to be able to...

Don't think so, I got more to upload, but after two years plus of waiting, what can I say... Lost my back-up copies when my computer crashed a year ago, always liked to be able to search the issues.

Without the batteries, leave your "accessory switch" OFF, that will keep the alternator off line. If you don't, you'll kill it after the engine starts and the batteries are removed. I vote for bad connection also.

Some automatic transmissions (Allison) come with a hydraulic retarder driveline brake, about on par with the "Jake" brake in performance, but without the noise. Sorry for another referral to the '69 xm757, my 8x8, but it came from factory with the hydraulic retarder. Not used by the Army, but...

Hmm...the compressor filter element is easily cleaned. On the other hand, the air to the compressor on the xm757 (hope I'm not bothering too many by constant referrals to my 8x8) is tapped off the filtered air to the engine and has no other filter. About your fittings, I believe they are also...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/3255-deuce-exhaust-brake-details.html Used it extensively during my cross country trip in the Rockies, gives off an intense hissing sound when used...

You are welcome. Glad you got it working, those heaters can be tricky.

After final installation, remember to add a ground strap to prevent static build-up...

Good point, but "with all lines intact", there will be flow, just check the return flow to the tank.