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I have driven it a few times on fires, hated to see it go but it was a pain for them to transport each time. I wanted to bid but 18K+ is out of my price range.
1100x18 NDCC from Universal $348EA=2,088 for a set of 6, + shipping. The pro comp tires are even more expensive. DUKW.com shows they have NOS denman/goodyear for $150EA but I recall someone here saying they bought some and were not happy with them.
That is the old style mechanical box, that box is the flasher, a big old beast. The solid state unit is much smaller and uses a round connector. The new style flasher/wand harness appears to be the same for most MV's, I see several places on line has them and the deuce parts should work just...
The TM states replace with the solid state flasher which is the common one found on all M series trucks now. You will also have to replace the flasher wiring harness and wand. The -20 shows how to do the conversion, mine shows it on page 2-154. It may not be the flasher unit and just a...
You need to fix the gen 1 light first. You will need to pull the instrument panel and clean the gen 1 bulb contacts. I'm pretty sure if gen1 light doesn't come on you are not completing the circuit that "turns on" gen 1. If I remember correctly thats why you are not seeing voltage on the...
The 4cyl mule engine is unique to itself. The 2cyl military standard engine can be used in the mule, however you will need a 2cyl mule engine as a parts donor as a lot of the exterior parts are unique to the mule application.
Thanks NDT, you were correct, I found that in the manual, appears also to be a mate to it that I am missing. The other parts in the first picture I can't find and suspect they are not for the M561 but some other green truck.
I purchased a M561 parts lot and manuals and would like to know if you would ID the parts in the photos. The last part looks like a tie rod end but no guts in it. A NOS center console with nice fresh rubber boots and data plates. Also an original -34P and a nice -20, and an original log...
Remove outer part of lockout hub, remove snap ring from end of axle, remove locking ring from groove in hub that secures the inner hub. To me this can be the worst part of the operation. You will need a prick or sharp skinny screwdriver to get it out. It's a piece of spring wire in the shape...
If it were mine I would not have the white lettering on the tires showing, loose the tow rope and the tailgate stencil should be on the outside. The rest I like, nice job.
You can't compare your civvy K30 to your M1028, they are wired differently. I just went out to the M1010 and confirmed the directional works as long as the service light switch is on, doesn't matter if the key is on or off. "looks good" doesn't cut it you must test the ground circuit.
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