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Thanks Chuck, that's what I was looking for. Right, the whitish sleeve is a hard plastic protective cover.

You are a good man, Kenny.

AZ, the drive flange is off the truck and in good condition. Replied to your PM. Yeah Kenny, would be nice to send you some parts in trade for the engine. After I retired, cash has become a rare commodity...

Yes, you need the flange. Since I don't use the winch on the deuce, suppose I could make the flange part available to you if you can't find one (it's still on the truck) anywhere else...

Anybody got a source for the larger size aluminum markers/tag for fuel lines, wire bundles etc? Picture shows the "wanted" size in comparison with the one available from Saturn, typically. TIA

Much appreciated. The cover is on the work bench.

Looking for actual "in service" hook-up pictures when in use by the military. Image below shows my solution. Because of the location of my genset up high on the truck bed, a hole below the terminals works nicely to feed the heavy cable to them. Cover temporarily removed.

Thanks for those pictures Chuck (battery hold-downs)! I'm sure you'll get it running.

Excellent choice IMHO. The AGM types will charge faster than the regular lead acids and the extra terminals are great for a clean installation. "Marine" grade for better deep cycle operation in addition to the starting. One day I will have the money for a couple of those too. :-) About your...

You want pictures? Here you go. While you are at it, observe the rules shown in image #3 below. For max reliability, minimize the number of cable connections at batteries.

Yes, and limit yourself to vehicle TMs prior to Sep 30, 1974...listings are in the back portion of the manuals. I know, if used in newer applications, add "00", but anyho...

In a CUCV, where they are charged separately, the charging will be ideal, but when in use coupled in series, they should be identical. Any difference in the internal resistance may produce a lower than 24 volt output to the starter.

The winch is rated 20,000 lb (1st layer), so you have a little to play with. Are your "stiff legs" present? They are needed for side lifts. About the decking, mine were cut with a big saw and the saw marks are perfect for a non-skid finish on top. The bottom only was planed to the 1-1/2 inch...

Here are a couple of drawings that may help. There are some differences in the hook-up on my 757, but the image shows yours.

This set came out of a good running engine. I replaced them anyway along with the cap last year. Need a new/rebuilt carb now...

Thanks Chuck, they have it, but it's this minimum quantity thing. I don't want to have to buy 10 sqft at a time, was looking for a hobby/crafts parts supplier.

Did printed circuit boards too. Here is one instruction sheet for that procedure. The etchant was Ferric Chloride for copper. Typical home made PCBs in 2nd and 3rd images. I could go from concept to sellable product in just a few days...wonder what happened to my ambition...

All work was done in a darkroom (closet space actually) and the etching was chemical, just sloshing it around in a tray for a while after exposure, like when you do photographs w/enlarger etc...in the days before the computer.

There was a time way back, when I made data tags "in the basement" by exposing and etching anodized aluminum sheets. Typically I used .02 thickness, anodized black, which came presensitized in light tight packaging. I think a company called Kepro supplied them, but they are no longer in...

The cap screws are usually cad plated and sanding or blasting them may remove some of the plating (rust protection). After assembly, I'd suggest you wipe them down good with thinner or acetone, prime them and touch up with paint after a few days. when the primer is good and ready. That's what I...