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I'd say Reworked who picked up three pumpkins for $2000 is off to a good start.
Remember, these things sold for scrap for like $80 a pop plus freight.
The installation was not mentioned when I told him that he did *not* get wallet raped...
;)
It's on my to-do list.
I was told on here that it couldn't be done.
If you've ever peeked up the steering column from under the cab, you see that it most certainly can be done.
I've built plenty of off-road cars back in the day. You can run a steering column pretty much anywhere you want on...
The good news is that you can get a rebuild kit for the hydraulic pump for about $70 (it may be less, the Facebook LMTV FMTV Military Trucks group has a link in their knowledge base to the kit or just ask someone on there if they can point you in the right direction). I think it's still sold by...
Yes, but then I still get a leak that appears to coming from the back of the switch at the control panel.
I should have mentioned that part. I suspect the either the switch is buggered as well or there is a break in the line in.
I never had to mess with air ride issues on my first truck, and...
Both bags are blown on the '94 that just followed me home.
I'll be fabricating the solution later, but for now I just want to cap them off/bypass.
Any tips on where best to tackle it (just quick and dirty)?
Can I just kill the feed at the switch in the panel or loop something?
Rgr that. Yeah, I spent some time hanging around a transmission repair shop back in the 90's. I know enough about automatics transmissions to know I'm not going to attempt a rebuild if it's played submarine. Way above my pay grade.
But after I get some new fuel lines on it I will know more...
Won't know for a few days. Have to fix a fuel leak then see why it's stuck in "Mode". That didn't worry me a bit, until I saw some indication of moister in the trans (milky dipstick). I suspect the clutch packs are mush.
I may have to replace the tans on a '94 I picked up awhile back. I was just going to part the truck out, but it was thru the BAE refresh in 2007 it seems and everything on the truck looks to be in solid working order.
My question is which 3070 was used (I don't see a casting stamp indicating...
To answer your question, I would think so. I have all the dimensions and measurements. I was going to just build a "copy" and stuff it with a Coldmaster unit off eBay (you can find 34K BTU heat/AC units that would fit nicely in a "replica Red Dot" Gen 2). But my access to the sheet metal...
Yep, that's the squeaky hook spot. Add a small amount of grease and see if that solves it (you need to re-apply often depending on use).
A 1998 would be an A0.
Yeah, you don't need the big triangular caps. The small round ones work just as well (so does duct tape, LOL).
1) You have an A0 truck, I assume. My A0 had a metal-to-metal squeak that was caused by the little rests on each side (not the latch, they are outboard from there about behind the center of each seat). You'll see a flat piece of metal with a notch cut out that rests on a short metal stub...
I've contemplated adding them. A couple years ago someone said not to bother as they were really only useful for making sure no one was standing near the front wheels or cab. I tend to be very aware of my mirrors, though. I would think the added coverage would be beneficial.
Yes, it's been a tough week for my reading comprehension. I saw MPH and responded with regard to MPG (we just had a spirited debate oven on FB last week on the topic).
Yes, of course the speed increases. It's then claims from truck owners that re-gearing lets them get an additional 15 MP...
It won't according to the reviews I've seen over the years. In principle it should, but given the low gearing of these trucks combined with the fact that we still have a granny 1st gear I don't recall anyone saying that the 3.07s robbed any noticeable low-end power.
*EDIT: I misread 15 MPH as...
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