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That less recessed one is for the singled out M34. As on on some M45 530c fire trucks.

Good luck with your trip to new pastures, Enjoy the scenery and the experience. Moving "all" to a new place is exiting and rewarding.

There ya' go..once you find one live wire and the position of the switch to "light it" (Service drive) you are good to go. TMs are your friend.

Welcome to the site, hobby, friendships, and events to come. Post up pictures of your vehicle when it arrives and or the "journey home".

It rather looks as though the lighter rear end was floated by the tires off traction?

Nice looking trucks, And some serious driving, Nicely completed despite the minor hitch, must have been quite some site for the "little cars".

Should have purchased a goat!...or..an OT64,. How did they get it out by the way, did you stay around to see them achieve that?

In addition to double clutching, You should Rev up the engine to equal the gear speed. If this is not working, then it seems the synchro mesh system is badly worn.OR the clutch is dragging. As the former would make clutchless gear changing possible.

When you switch on the ignition, it seems that a wire going o something "somewhere" is shorting out. So WHAT requires power (only) first?..Usually the distributor, via the coil. in the ignition circuit. (though unlikely to cause a 'burn' short out.) The fuel pump? (if one is fitted) and or ANY...

Another awareness point for us all to file away in our "additions in memory" to take all due care AND diligence, As, I for one will 'pause' properly BEFORE completing maneuvers. (just like that one...haven't we ALL?..though at some time?)Take Care people, and safe travelling.

The blackout circuit is NOT on the same circuit as the "main" light harness. The FAULT FUNCTION will remain, with it (the blackout switch) in or out of the circuit. Start and check the pointers I already made, Remove the 'hot wire short' and the proper functions in main and blackout lights will...

Disable the hot wire connected to the flasher unit. And, as American vehicles have a (strange) different wiring method to anyone else, Check if the brake light switch is shorting, or, if that same same 'hot' wire has arrived (is running) at the brake lights. Look for a cross short circuit there...

Wow! that was very professionally filmed..and slow and steady does it. Do you own ALL those Humvee's?. And the aerial shots..there a story right there..so, Please post it up.

Regulated air can (then) shut of the compressor by the sensor line allowing the compressor to "stall" (stop building air) usually by way of the valves. An air leak prevents this build up of 'sensing' air.

Absolutely correct, Summed up completely correctly and succinctly. Nothing amiss in your post#2 or the follow up post. These systems are NOT "junk simple treat em' any old how mechanisms" they ARE extremely complex and quite (actually) beyond the ken of ordinary folk. soz..my rant and 5 1/2 penne'th

That was some wack, glad you came out OK. What (then) happened to that other driver?

There are so many versions of those, in so many armies, You will derive much pleasure from the restoration and use.

Some things seem just "not to be" I have just struggled for TWO days! to get the splines engaged on a ..1938 !Flying Standard 10! And with the use of spline aligning tool. Frustrated, (moocho's annoyed) I angle ground the engine mounts off as they are integral with the engine. (fouling anything...

You must be rather pleased that fuel prices have plummeted! Nice (aggressive) chunk of machinery there. (see you at W,A,P, Revival? (with it!).

Look to this fault as mentioned this is usually a "good!" source of fuel entering the engine block. If your engine starts and runs good it is not (in the least) the rings. Also try researching some of the previous posts on this problem, there are quite a few pointers (and fixes) there.