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Did your buzzer not work? Pressure <60 psi = buzzer. I broke a rear glad hand (right side) one time backing up into some debris and that buzzer left no question as to what had happened.... Just curious...yes, make your own replacement, we are not talking high pressure here only reliability.

Finally got started on the cover for the rear of the cab. Using pieces from an old 5-ton cargo cover and "Goop", it should be finished in a few days.

:-)

Keep forgetting about the triangle thing. So, is the triangle used for 1990 or does it not include that year? If it is included, then this rather goodlooking Goodyear would be 29 years old. Edit: added image with triangle in date code.

That very chicken was taken by a black bear late last night...tore the screen door off the chicken coop and grabbed it in the dark. Chased the bear off twice so far this morning...life in the country.

They are steps.... The 3-digit date code gives you the week and the last number of the year, not the decade, so it's okay as long as you don't keep the tires on the truck for more than ten years. After 1999, a 4-digit code is used. The recapping date code (I'm assuming that's what it is) has 4...

I believe in siping too, all tires on the deuce were siped for that trip, so the wear info above is for siped 1100-20 NDCCs....

More or less, but I didn't mention it since it's rather un-typical with the stub axle removed and heavy haul. The wear on the single driving axle was perhaps 5/32 per 1,000 miles (five times as much as the front or rear non-driving tires). With duals and less cargo, less wear no doubt.

The Goodyears on my 8x8 are holding up much better than the BF Goodrich ones. Unfortunately, it's not possible to tell the actual date by a 3-digit date code, so the Goodyears may be newer, but they were not made after 1990, so all my tires are old....

Roscoe, there is also lengthwise siping visible in the center of this very worn tire....it's a retread with marking "REOR 5080". Don't know who did the recapping, but the original tire is a BF Goodrich.

On a non-driving tire, I have found that it wears about 1/32 per 1,000 miles.

I have several examples of tires with groves and sipes to improve the traction on wet pavement in particular. Does anyone know when this practice began or if it was ever specified? I have retreads as well as original tires with this treatment.

Mine is mounted upside down, so lubing must be possible in any position...your drain is my fill port.

There may be an issue with the built-in circuit breaker (20 amp rating inside the 3-lever light switch), so to be on the safe side, add relay(s) to keep head lights from going out at the wrong time. (right click and open link in new window for full resolution) Edit: Added image of lights...

Plenty....

The correct bulb is the #1829 with a life expectancy of 1,000 hrs. Switch to #356 for better illumination, the filament is in a better position. To adjust the altenator, see image (from the PS magazine section).

They'll be too big, thanks. The 14.5R20 with an aspect ratio of 70-80% compared to the original Goodyear 16-20 (should be 16/70-20 by modern marking)...they were built for floatation.

If it works, this is a link to the article: Military Trader - restoration series number 2: Coolant Maintenance

Correct, 1 inch =25.4 millimeters...brain missing a gear...or two.....

This thread ties in with several other ones, describing my pathway to replacement tires for the 8x8. The 395s I ended up with are too big and heavy, so I won't be using them. The 14.5R20 XL or 365/80R20 XZL are better choices.