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Brakes!!

I know a guy that has a runner, a ROLLING CHASSIS, APX 5 EXTRA ENGINES, DIFFS, AND ALL KINDS O STUFF. i THINK HE WANTS 11K.

Yes, I have used KM products, VERY good stuff! It is expensive, that's why my company does not use them any more. The paint covers very well and lasts. I still have a couple of cans of high temp aluminum stashed at the shop and I use it on the exhaust for the re-powers I am doing. You should...

:ditto: What m16ty said. If there are no leaks, take the gov off and give it a nice love tap with a hammer and some MMO in the ports and re install it, maybe give it a tap or two when the comp is pumping. If that don't work PM me and I think I have an unloader kit at the shop.

No, but I have a manual on CD for winches an PTOs. I can burn a copy and send it to you if you like.

:idea:

That kind of stuff is normally set on a pump stand. To get it correct, there are gauges and flow meters attached to the pump and calibration fluid is used. Fuel injection isn't like carburetion, No settings like turn it in 'till it runs bad then back it out.

Is the fuel shut off lever pushed all the way in? If you follow the shut off cable you will see it goes into the pump at a cover that is held onwith two screws. Take that cover off and stick your finger in there and physically push the shut off toward the front of the engine. Sometimes they...

You can buy 24vdc brake solenoids. The switches don't matter. They pull alot of amps. You'll need a 24vdc FSOV too. That's the only other 24 volt stuff you'll need

It can't blow out of the engine, there is a hard fuel line connected to it. It can just pop up a bit. There is a sealing washer at the injector body to cylinder head area. If carbon got in that space when the injector loosened up and it was tightened back up, there would be space for compression...

:ditto: Check the grounds at the flasher box first.

88NT...Good engine. Looks like it came out of a Volvo. If it were me, I'd get rid of the trans mounted rear engine mounts. It makes it a PITA to anything on the rear of the engine once it is in and when you go in or out, the engine needs to come up apx 2 inches before it come out. It wreaks...

Yup.

McMaster sells them too.

Wadaya gonna do with your old plates?? ;-)

:funny: Heres my pig.

Thank God your son and yourself are in good shape. Any witnesses? Your stuff can be fixed or replaced, you and your kiddo not so much.

I know out here in PC California, a turbo is considered a muffler.

And they are way old school. You are better off going to HF, Northern Tool or your local Kragan. You won't use it much, but it will be there when you do need it. To run A/C and freezers plus lighting, 4000w minimum.

Drive it with the switch "on" and make a tight turn. The steering wheel will want to pull out of your hands. It is not good to drive on pavement with the front end engaged!