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I just looked at the specs for Line-X. It is rated for use up to 250 deg F, but they also say that they have a similar product for commercial use that is good for up to 350 deg. F. I can't believe that the hood on an A3 would get over 250 deg F. The next warm day that I drive my deuce, I'll...

I know they have a lot of problems to keep running, but they do look good!

I do almost the same thing. I have a 5 foot pry bar that is designed to move heavy machinery. Damaging the stud threads is a real possibility and prying with a bar can get the wheel on without even touching the threads if one is careful.

The ability to stand the heat is a very good question. I have Rhino sprayed in the bed of a trailer I have. The color is black and it gets extremely hot in the sun, which is probably a very common problem. I'm not sure how hot it would get under the hood, but the heat is the reason I wanted...

As most people know, if you have an M35A3 with an atrocious riveted steel hood, they rust and corrode badly on the bottom side. One factor is the inssulation that is riveted under the hood which tends to trap water. Water also gets under the rivets and under the central band of steel holding...

I would have loved to get my hands on that! Too rich for my blood though. I hope someone from SS got it.

Tire Dismounting on A3 Using Tractor With Forks I finally got around to dismounting my passenger side rear tire on my A3 today. I don't know how anyone does this without a tractor with forks. It makes the job extremely easy, both dismounting and remounting. Unfortunately, in my case I...

It looks like I made the same mistake. I ordered new AM General inner seals/X-rings from Terry McClanahan, which I've used on my A3. I also ordered the following Buna-N O-rings from McMaster Carr: P/N 9452K149 Dash 143 O-ring 9452K158 Dash 151 O-ring 90025K396 Dash 238 X-ring...

Replacing the shock will likely solve your problem. Disconnecting the brake lines will only make a mess and the MC will be banging in and out as the lunette moves if you don't have a pin installed. I would replace the shock or insert a pin.

I was going to bid on one, but they got too rich for me.

I just noticed that you stated that you run 100% WMO that is mostly filtered. If you are not filtering all of your WMO very thoroughly, you will be looking for a new IP very shortly. IPs are expensive. :sad:

Motomacguyver is dead on with his post. I bought all of my o-rings and X-rings from McMaster Carr and have a lifetime supply. These are very easy to replace once the hub is removed and the TM has very good directions. What I am doing every time I pull a wheel from my A3 is to pull the hub and...

:funny:

When filters are clogging, you get white smoke and less power. There is no way you can get more power by burning less fuel.

I would recommend replacing the start button as well since it has been abused with high current. Or at least have a spare.

What do they make you do to the front unit? Crush it, cut in half, shred? I'm wondering if the de-mil can be reversed?

I'm not sure, but it is likely that the truck needs shocks anyway and they aren't that expensive. I never take my A2 over 52. Running at 50 - 52 is the sweet spot - any faster and it just doesn't feel right. These trucks are over 40 years old but very dependable if driven easy.

I'm glad you made it back safe. The photos of that truck don't look that bad. Are you sure it's bad enough to scrap it out?

That's why I drove mine the 1,000 miles at 45 MPH non-stop. Many many hours freezing cold and a sore rear but, only cost was fuel, replacement for blown tire and service charge for changing wheel. My payback per hour was decent, plus I actually had fun. The other advantage was that I knew a...

Not to answer for Oddshot, but when I replaced my A2 shocks, I used Monroe 34787 shocks, which are sold at NAPA under 76787. They were a perfect fit with 1/2 inch studs. I know others swear that Monroe 66903 is better, but the 66903 only has 3/8 inch studs whereas the military shocks are 1/2...