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I couldn't tell you, once I saw that I continued to remove the box for more T/S. As soon as I disconnected the under dash connector and tried the switch again, the light did not come back on. So I assumed it is a capacitor powering the system and not a "ghost" exciter. That gave me pause and I...

Right now I am completely baffled and am asking for a sanity check. I have completely disconnected both batteries, all 4 terminals, and wanted to make sure all power is dissappated before I remove the PCB. To do that I flipped the start switch to run, and the brake light is on o_O What is...

Depending on what happened, feasible to repair, bypass or replace is my guess?

I started on that thread a while back, but until I actually get into the box itself, most doesn't make sense in my noggen. I will be removing the box and opening in the next few days, maybe do some multimeter probing. I would reach out in the next few days via PM with tons of questions. Thanks...

Well, it had to happen at some point... I believe my PCB box went out yesterday. Without any previous symptoms, yesterday tried to start. Cranked for for 10 seconds, no start, filled the garage with white smoke. For some reason I even watched the trucks' voltmeter and no voltage drop or rise...

Hey @HUMMER H1 , I was just searching for different Tachometers and installation methods here on this board, even maybe starting a new thread, then ran across this post of yours. Would you have time to post some pics? Also, would you mind if I hijacked this thread a little bit and asked which...

That will most likely throw a code 37 TCC Brake Switch Stuck On, won't it?

Same here on the super touchy brakes. I wonder if one could make a bent or offset connection rod between the two switches so on activates sooner/later.

My M1123 has the same issue. I opted for the brake switch not being as sensitive as it should be. Others have commented on the brake pedal travel being very short so that the lights only illuminate when half the brake pressure is on. I think RTW and Mogman have contemplated a modification to...

Just to clarify b/c it's not 100% clear the way you are describing: Turn the switch to run only not starting the engine yet, the light stays on. Start the engine and return to run, the light should be off.

Welcome to the forum. Lots of good info and help... Nice looking truck. You're lucky to get some of the deep water fording parts like the exhaust. They did take the CDR valve and most likely the container and valve. Just like on my M1123 that I just got a few months back. I took the liberty...

Sorry to hear. This will for sure make you a stronger person... :confused: Just out of curiosity before you get into wrenching and to cover the basics, did someone refuel and putting gas in by accident? Best of luck.

If all else fails, you can always use or sell the truck as a farm truck (like a tractor or implement), banned to stay on the owners' property. The question that comes up is how much money to sink into it to make it usable for that... I wonder if others could chime in about engine serial numbers...

BUT, I just thought of something. The correct belt is Truck Serial number dependent... Under and over serial number 196900.

This belt worked great for me. It is 98" long, and works with the 6.5, non- turbo. Some places sell this Bando belt as NSN compatible. Not sure about the A/C pulley, haven't treally seen the setup in person.

When i got my truck in May this year this was also disconnected and I had to ask. I just recently plugged it back in and it seems to work fine, more testing and trouble shooting to be done to find out why it was disconnected. I assume to keep the cooling better as it was used in a desert...

Great advice, thank you. I will be chasing the wires and report back what I find... The truck drives nicely now I wonder how or why... Yes, the TPS is in the center next to the coolant manifold.

So, I spent 5 hours in the Auto Hobby Shop at Ellsworth AFB yesterday. Huge shout out to John, shop manager and his buddy Joe, both retired Motorpool Sgts. We did get the OD situation somewhat figured out. It must have been a combination of some hydraulic fluid in the electrical connector at...

Still begs the question if the balancer will hold the weight... According to the owners manual on HF, the balancers' capacity is 15" light truck... Probably a huge difference to the 37" with runflats. Just MHO. But, if you do move forward, keep the board up to date.

Hey everyone, I need a bit of help in all things overdrive. Fluids are new and at the correct level, filter changed within the last 200 miles. Symptoms: Occasionally, but not often, I get trans code 22, Throttle Position circuit high edit LOW. When hot, shifting 2nd, 3rd and then 4th is...