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I didn't give the price of $20 but there are several ends available at different sources for a fraction of the cost of a complete NATO cable assembly. I know the Anderson plug ends are even cheaper, but my goal is to not have the add-on stuff hanging out the grill when there is already an...
Good information. True, it would be nice to have another gear up there above 60 but as far as driving long distances with the TH400, I do it almost every weekend heading up north to the lake. 100 miles each way at 65. It feels better than 50 did before the wheel swap. I'll wait till my 400 needs...
Lots of questions back at me. Good. No, I do not plan on selling the truck as this is the most useful truck I've owned for what I need it for. Good riddance to my 2500HD which at the time, I thought it was the greatest. And yes, if I did sell it all I would have to do is move the under hood...
Personally I'd go with the 4.56 with the low hp 6.2 if you want to keep any of the low end drivability and performance, especially with the H1 wheels. Each one of the wheel/ tire units with bead locks weigh close to 200 pounds! That's a lot of unsprung weight to get rolling. You will still be...
Thanks for the cautionary posts. The chances of me ever needing to hook up to a second 24v vehicle that happens to have a single pin boost connector on it would seem slim to none. Also, the chance of another CUCV coming to my aid with another single pin port and a military boost cable seems even...
Good idea. That's how I start my 4 stroke snowmobile after it sits all summer. Blow through the return line to pressurize the tank and the sled will start right up instead of cranking the battery dead.
That is a good alternative, but I was wondering about rewiring the EXISTING boost port on the truck to 12v so I could make my own jumper cable set using a military style plug end and a pair of clamps on the other end for the dead 12v slave vehicle's battery.
Oh, okay. I don't have that bad of trouble on mine. Never a gen light and I don't even know if the gen 2 light even works. It does not glow with key on, engine off even with a different bulb.
My 1008 started doing the same thing. Always cranks fine and drives fine at night, but gauge usually stays at the top of the yellow segment now, rarely going into the green. It used to run in the green all of the time a couple months back.
I don't notice the lights dimming on my truck, and the...
Hitch works fine. I used the 2 pintel hitch bolts as well. Had to re-drill though. Cheap and easy. I figure if I tow something heavy enough to pull that heavy duty bumper loose, I'm already in trouble. Works fine with my boat and 23' snowmobile trailer. The extra braces get in the way of...
I had a heckuva time finding the right size socket as I had one missing also. Apparently they come in 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8". Nobody around me carried the 5/8 sockets so i bought some off ebay, Dorman brand. If you need to replace your cluster anyway, chances are good that when you find one in a...
Cyclejay, all of the bulbs come out from the back side of the cluster by turning the socket 1/4 turn. No need to pull the gauges. You should be able to get to all of them from under the dash. If you have broken pieces on your shift indicator you will need to replace them.
Couldn't cut it down enough to work in the original spot. Got tired of messing around trying to rig something up as far as adapters go and couldn't find what I needed online so I just went out and got it over with. Now I know I have something that works right, fits tight and will work my trailer...
Yes, if you keep the stock brake hoses you will end up yanking them out. ORD has a nice set of longer front and rear brake hoses for this application. No need to move brackets.
Removed the instrument cluster, disassembled, and cleaned everything including buffing the lens clear again. Cleaned and repaired the shift indicator and steel wooled all of the printed circuit connections. Replaced all of the 194 peanut bulbs with higher wattage 168 bulbs. (now I have more than...
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