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The no comments in the classifieds does have some drawbacks but I will say this, that single feature has done more to help us mods keep the classifieds under control than anything that has ever been done. I say leave the classifieds with no comments.
I still think a switch operated air assist is dangerous. What are you going to do if you bump the switch accidentally going down the road? My thinking is you'll loose control.
I'm really busy at the moment with other things (the last few weeks I haven't done much moderating at all) but when things calm down I'll work on the TM section, unless you can find someone else to do it.
I know it's a mess and has been on my "to do" list.
The air assist works ok. It's not as good as full hyd but is sufficient in my opinion. It's night and day difference from stock at slow speeds.
I think what your wanting to build would work and be fairly cheap but would be awfully cumbersome to operate and could be dangerous. Imagine...
I will add that when I towed doubles it was with M105s. Could do 70mph and they just followed right along.
I assumed M101 trailers would do the same. Judging by the other post, I may have been mistaken.
Just be careful towing doubles. I've done it before but you need to make sure you have some extra weight (200lb or so) in the front of the front trailer or it could be disastrous (trailers will fishtail).
I used to be into tractor pulling and have hooked to the sled many,many times. There are just too many variables to tell you for sure what gear you need.
One of the main variables is track conditions. Watch the pullers before you, if they are getting a good bite then you may want to go in low...
When hand cranking old tractors, I was always taught to pull up on compression to start it. The thinking is that if it kicks back it will just slip out of your hand. Seems like a good way to break your wrist pushing down to start if it kicks back.
There's a plug on the side of the case. Should be level with the hole or within a 1/2" or so.
I've never had problems filling the t-case level with the hole but the trans needs to stay at least 1/2" down or you'll puke oil out around the input shaft.
This thread is several years old. I'm sure Chris has found the legal help he needs by now.
I'm going to close this thread for now. If there is a need we can reopen it.
You said you bought a tap and talking about drilling. What are you drilling and tapping?
Your studs may be long enough, I'm not sure. Just make sure you at least have enough stud sticking out equal to the stud dia. If you're dualing them out, you will need longer thimbles (some people call them...
If you don't want to get anybody else involved, then why are you wanting to post the deal in the forum to get the whole site involved?
If anybody has a deal they think has gone bad, PM a mod. We try our best to resolve these issues.
There was a thread about this same subject just a few days ago. I search would give you several results.
In my opinion deuce is better off road than a 5-ton, a little more maneuverable and can go better in mud. In my experience, I can go right through a mud hole with my deuce that a 5-ton got...
The fact is the EPA can do anything they wish as long as they can get the DLA to go along with it. It doesn't really matter if the tag does say "EPA compliant at time of manufacture". These vehicles belong to the government and they can do whatever with them they choose.
These screws tend to corrode bad because it's a steel screw in a aluminum housing. You'll probably be ok with one screw broken but if you break any more you may end up ruining the housing.
You're not going to gain very much at all fooling with the fuel adjustment. I'd quit while I was ahead.
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