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You are correct, I've been stirred and getting my zapper warmed up. :wink:
I'm ok with the thread as long as it stays on topic (I can't speak for other mods). We don't need comments about tax law that has nothing to do with MVs.
Edit- I just went back and looked at a bunch of older post that...
I've got a 251 (older model of the 252). It is a nice machine and handles anything I want to do.
I've also got a Miller Deltaweld 451 that a guy gave me that wouldn't work. Turns out all it needed was a on/off switch. That thing's a monster and bigger than anything I need. It's 3ph only which...
The old welders around here say Lincoln for stick and Miller for MIG. As said above, Ford vs Chevy.
Only Lincoln machine I have is a old Pipeliner, everything else is Miller (Stick, MIG, TIG, plasma). To me, the Millers just seem to have more options on the same size welder over the Lincoln...
I don't understand when you say the block was "scorched". Do you mean the inside of the hole is damaged? If so, JB Weld may be your only option, depending on how bad the damage is.
Most freeze plug heaters seal with a o-ring. Maybe try a new o-ring and see if that seals it up.
There are all kinds of books out there about welding and you can find some good youtube vids.
Here's a pretty good welding forum- http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/
There are a few things I stay away from at HF, welders are one of them. Most of these welds will produce a bead on very thin stuff but a decent welder will be much more easier to use, especially for a beginner.
Stick with a name brand welder (Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, etc).
Just think about the maintenance cost. Fuel mileage aside, maintenance cost will be quite high using one as a DD.
Can you do it, Yes. Is it practical, no.
If you can get the two screws out you're having trouble with, you're almost there so I wouldn't give up just yet. Just remember where everything comes from (take pics if needed) and don't fool with the fuel adjustment and you'll be fine tearing it down and replacing the flex ring. Take special...
One junk meter I have now is a Sperry Rand that works fine but eats batteries for some reason (seems every time I pick it up the battery is dead). The other is a Greenlee that I was trying to use the other day and the voltage was all over the place with the leads not hooked to anything and when...
I'm tired of fooling with these cheap or old multimeters. I've got a couple of cheap digital meters that don't seem to work very well and a couple of high end analog meters that are just very old. I need a decent multimeter. I'm tired of fooling with my MEP and MVs with a junk meter.
I've been...
Jeepskinker, it's not as easy to drill as it sounds, all these parts are precision parts and one slip up and the whole thing is just a paperweight. It isn't a screw in the traditional sense, it is actually a knob that controls the timing advance. It would be almost impossible to hold the cam...
For the advance screw, the correct wrench is a Bristol wrench. I have found that a #40 (I think) torx will work in a pinch. They are usually very tight.
Sometimes even with the correct wrench you still can't get it out. I've heard reports of people cutting the housing apart to get it out. The...
About the best I could come up with was this- http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?37226-Deuce-quot-Eager-Beaver-quot-article&highlight=eager+beaver
I found some more threads alluding to the ad you speak of but they just had dead links.
I did see one of these civilian models at Howard...
You're right, I just went there and checked it myself. Awhile back they shut it down to anybody without a access code. After that I hadn't tried to get back on it. I guess they changed their mind and opened it back up the the public.
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