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I would suggest some sort of a bar and screen set up around the condenser in the bed of the truck. You need some protection so this doesn't get damaged by shifting cargo or some kid stepping on it. I am interested to hear how this turns out!

Video worked fine for me. Saw it before, but it still is impressive.

Let me be the first to say, nopics

I am very interested in this trip. Everyone should plan on bringing a camping stove, just in case the Forest Service shuts down campfires due to the drought.

Search for "Russian Dash Cam Videos" and you'll realize why they are almost a standard feature there.

I see a lot of maintenance in your future.

If you're not in a huge hurry, I'd soak the bolt area with WD-40 or PB Blaster every time you walk by the truck for the next few days. Then get out the biggest hammer you can find an pound away. The bolt is trash anyway, so you will be replacing it. I would avoid the torch method except as a...

I found a trick that helps with the harsh 2nd to 1st downshift: slow down to 10 to 8 MPH, then brake relatively hard to a stop. It seems that if the brakes are the primary method of stopping the truck below 10 MPH, the final downshift is not nearly as bad.

Soapy water from a squirt bottle is your friend when it comes to finding leaks. Squirt it all over the air fittings until you see bubbles. Don't overtighten anything - just until the bubbles stop.

I've found that the rubber cord material on the newer vinyl tops gets attacked by sun and ozone first. My truck has too sit outside, so I store the cargo cover inside until I want to use it.

^That's a great waterproof enclosure (assuming the can's gasket is present and intact). Thanks for sharing this great idea. I work in electronics. Maybe sometime I'll get off my butt and get licensed for ham.

Which 5-ton? If it is the M939 series, maybe the lock up torque converter is staying locked and causing the engine to stall.

Whatever meter you get, avoid ones powered by AA or AAA batteries. I've seen many meters damaged by leaking AA and AAA batteries. I can't remember the last time I saw a leaking 9-Volt battery.

Fluke 87-V. Get the optional 80BK K-type thermocouple and you can measure temperature also. The meter will almost walk your dog for you. I've been calibrating Fluke DMM's for 20 years, and I can say that while all Fluke's are excellent, the 87's are my personal favorites.

You are so much better off having your new purchase commercially hauled. Get a ballpark quote from U-ship or the like and add that cost to the purchase price of the new truck.

Did anyone ever hear from Ozzytrucker? I'm wondering if he ever made the trip. Maybe he postponed it?

The shift from low 5 to high 4 is easy: clutch in, grab transfer case lever and pull to high, grab transmission gear shift and shift into high four, let out clutch. It can be done easily with one clutch push. Downshifting is also one clutch push in, shift transfer down into low, and shift from...

When I had my deuce, I shifted like this: Low 2, Low 3, Low 4, Low 5, High 4, and High 5. Down shifting was the reverse of this pattern. I always shifted the transfer case first, whether I was upshifting or downshifting. You must start out in Low 1 if your truck has a sprague clutch transfer...

If you were planning to operate the truck at high elevations, then the 8.3 with turbo would be a better choice. Obviously, not a concern in Florida. I love my NHC250, but I haven't had it up in the mountains yet. It has a definite happy spot at 1900 RPM.

Good info here. What is the usual cruising speed of an FMTV in the top OD gear? I have no experience with these trucks.