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I know it is what it is . . . . but I HATE a plow hanging soooooo far off the front end . keep them up / in / tighter so there is less leverage on the frame and ends . my 1ton k30 chevys I have I run old school fishers . I think there up/in the most of the 3 brands . and when plow off...

as said add-a-leaf in wrong position . NEVER let a leaf be short over the next or it will bend it and brake over time. check for worn out upper shackle bushings on the frame for front springs . all most always dead by now in these trucks. 1/2" longer is all that's needed for front shackle...

called them today super cool on the phone and got me lined up with some ideas and ball park prices with basic info I had .

got a bissness # or how do I get in touch with you ?

o.k. . . . c-60 has a napco 4x4 conversion under it from a 1970 that rusted away body wise . it was a basic direct bolt in minus few tiny mods. its got 8.25x20 tire/rim combo . . . . about 39" tall tire. and the 19.5 of it when 2wd would bolt on but no tall tires in 19.5 size . and...

just a idea . .. what if you could get a range box ( front half of a np203 full time ) and flip it around and use the 2.0 to 1 reduction as a 1 to 2.0 to give you more speed ? you would have to have a few parts made but could be done . nice to see someone try and play with these trucks.

I have a project truck that needs tires but there crazy expensive and hard to find. the bolt pattern is a unique one to the trucks . gm c-60 med duty 5/10lug . I was thinking re-center 5 ton rims like they do in the off road world with the hummer rims. plus 5ton rim/tire combos are cheeper...

that tool and a bottle of cold water . . . . for the old school trick of rusted nuts/bolts .

I have a 8.3 head on the floor in my shop . . . long story . by looking at it the only place I see diesel getting in the compressed air side is the head might have a hair line crack at the filter boss on the inside under the intake tube/plate to head . as this is were the compresser gets...

why not just a belt drive / clutch head unit on the engine just on a custom bracket by the alt ? the clutch head would work like a a/c clutch only when you supply power . so pump don't spin all the time. its what I have on my 1ton old school chevy with fisher plow setup .

and this info is only good if your towing with the front axle off the ground and steering wheel locked / tied off to not move and kick the brake buddy out .

also civi truck might need air bags pumped up and air to keep them up . if its air ride . and make sure before you even move the truck pull the drive shaft . my boss tows big stuff with his 35ton kw and some of the storys of trucks these days with auto trans or even some man trans you move...

what filter ? engine on head or frame mounted behind left front wheel . ? there is always engine and most have the second on frame . tank could be clean but BIG filter on frame could be full and blowing junk up the line.

its not clark its crane offroad . http://craneaxle.com/Product/32/Crane-Axle-Dana-60-King-Pin-Spring-Eliminator-Kit.aspx

problem is the generic styling of the switch you posted pic of makes even the cheepys look like prem units . had to tell unless you have the box or info off the unit .

I just replaced one from the whole bottom gone . got 4ft of 4" pipe . cut off flange from old muffler . reclamped it to pipe set up new 4" pipe section made angle cuts and welded up and clamped just like muffler to bracket . reinstalled safty cage and welded on top flange and rebolted on...

I was just asking this on another forum . best to cut ground most said . and make sure the amp draw rating are up there . lots of big switches that are cheep and he reason is min draw . local store has them for 35 bucks . . . . 20 amp working and 125 surge . I had them order me in a 175...

better recheck your info . I just got a katz 30108 from local napa and installed it for a guy and it was a 1000 watt unit . goes in just above the starter pass side freeze plug real good and easy . just got to drain over 7gal coolent and still spill a little bit when you pop out the plug ...

x100 . fixed a lot of them this way . get a pair of new spicer springs and bushings and gaskets . over time the spring sags out and wont hold the correct tension on the bushing and cause it to go crazy over a bump and DEATH WOBBLE . I have seen it personaly on my 1 truck with just 1/16"...

don't forget the correct length hood rod . or you will smash the grill up .