Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Unless you have shortened your frame rails like John has done here with his highly modified truck, or possibly put on way bigger tires that extend beyond the frame, you can't do this - straight on and the wall higher than your frame. The end of the frame hits the wall, preventing the wheels from...
You said you don't have a title - so keep all your receipts for parts and take pictures along the way! All that documentation will be adequate in most states to apply for a home-built title of you can prove you assembled it from parts..
That doesn't look like it is going to be a problem here..
None of them can without modification. What John A. has done here to be able to pull this off is shorten the front overhang. The Cummin's engine swap, large tires, cut down hood and overhang all combine to make it possible. A normal ECV or HMMWV would never get the tires right up against the wall.
Any one have any tips for disassembling and reassembling the two-piece wheels?
My left front and my spare keep going flat. I've pulled the CTIS lines on the wheel and replaced the plumbing with a schrader valve, so it isn't my CTIS plumbing. I know. Have a bad seal in the axle on that corner...
White smoke is unburned fuel. You have a failure in your glow plugs, gp circuits or your control box. Try swapping the control box from a truck that starts with one that doesn't. Use the TM for troubleshooting starting problems.
Do you get any smoke out the exhaust when your cranking? If so, what color? Is the speed at which it turns over fast or slow? If slow, use a slave cable from a running truck to help spin it fast enough to get it to catch. I assume the "wait to start light" is operating normally? Have you tried...
Thanks for the replies. Had to pull the ASK off to access the governor section (what fun that was). Problem was the throttle cable had lost a strand and was binding up inside the sleeve - not allowing the throttle control to extend enough to drop the RPMs.
In fiddling with it, the cable broke...
I picked up a MEP-002A this summer. Have been working my way through a list of problems: bad fuel (5 years sitting), leaking fuel tank, broken fuel line, general filters and oil change, and no charging when I finally got her running.
Today, I got it running reliably but the Hertz gauge is...
Lynch HUMMER Pre-owned HUMMER Headquarters. - the factory materials say two things about the helicals: quieter and less rocking (lash) when stopping.
12k hubs are no stronger than 10k hubs - it's the half shafts that are stronger in the 12k setup ( and brakes ). The geared hub is not a weak...
Actually the reason the Alphaused helical cut gears was to reduce noise over the straight-cut gears as well as the backlash. Straight cut gears are superior to helical in strength - but noisy as heck....
JWaller is correct. The early IBIS Tek bars (tan) have been or are being disposed of. Specifically they are not for use on Heavy HMMWV's and have been replaced with a dark colored one that is stronger/better. A number of the early tan bars were surplused.
Cheers,
Clarke
Did you adjust the regulator on the inside of the frame rail - drivers side? Lots of people apparently remove them, but with a few cranks, adjusting mine made a noticeable improvement in effort reduction.
Have a M1101 trailer I need picked up Friday 12-2 or Mon/Tues same time at Wright Patterson. Have a place near by that can store if if need be.
Happy to pay for someones time...
Thanks!
Clarke
Looking at the post from EXITNOONE and I don't see any pictures? I too have an A3 with poor performing air-assist. I can hear small bits of air as I move the wheel, but the effort is still very high.
I have a separate issue. There is a fitting on the top of the engine, drivers side, that looks...
I am looking for the same for my A3. Need in the Mid-Atlantic area I am in SE Pennsylvania. I checked with Eastern Surplus but he wants new prices, not surplus.
Cheers,
Clarke
Thanks!
Classic/Historic plates usually require that the truck/car be >25 years sold. Not going to happen with an A3 unless your Form-97 gets filled out wrong and someone puts a different year in.
I just moved to SE PA with my A3. Standard yearly inspection. State Farm wrote a commercial policy for...