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Thanks for that Yeehaa. I may need my 701 as a backup sooner than I thought. The unit runs and seems to charge well. Besides the hookup, to run 1 phase 240 to house, what is recommended setting for volt setting; V10 V20 V12 V30 V23 V31 and Current setting L1 L2 L3. I have a manual, but know...

I believe S1-5 and 6 are on the main voltage switch, the one you see inside the panel on the right. My understanding is that the S!-5 to S1-6 jump was originally posted for the mep 016 a & c Not sure it is the same as mep 16 b or the 701a. If anyone has tried this on a 016b or 701, please post.

Don't you guys listen to Coast to Coast AM? (radio show) oh, you actually sleep at night.

I have used por 15 on restoration projects in the past. I have heard it is not as good as it used to be. There is a product available at my local auto parts store called Chassis Saver. it very like and as good as the old por15. Smelly, toxic, un sandable, moisture actually speeds hardening...

There are dash pad covers for sale in most of the chevy aftermarket cataloges, ie lmc, brother's ect. They are around $100, and work fine if the dash is not too deteriorated. Light grey is a good color, as it does not absorb too much heat, and as the generic color, it is the one the government...

It would be really cool if you could fill your own air tanks. I realize that requires a totally different air compressor.

The 1982 6.2s had a different thread for the aluminum oil cooler lines into the radiator. Sometimes the GMC truck line would use up older parts from chevy production. Yours being a 83 GMC, you might want to check that , or at least don't go nuts when the threads don't quite fit.

I got a couple of 1031s. Pretty happy about it. Not the nicest ones in auction, but affordable and will go to good home. Now for the EUC wait and all. Been though this, will be glad when they are in the yard.

This may sound off, because you are obviously know your way around a cucv, if you did not have the warm up timing and throttle advance circuit working, and it got reconnected after all these years...it would have a uncharacteristic rattle for a few minutes. I'll stop guessing now, hard to do...

The ignition switch is the same as a civilian chevy truck in that age range

I got one off e-bay only to find current detector missing, even though it was pictured. The stripped down units for sale cheep are almost worthless.

Have to admire the farm style ingenuity with the tube for either. My understanding is that either can cause instant damage if any glow plugs are active. Damage can also occur if you use more than a whif of either. even with glow off. Another possibility is that your old glow plugs have dropped...

If you compare the slot for the wheels that run in the window channel, the channel are a lot smaller on the 70's ones than the 80's ones. Even though the door stamp and glass shape is the same, the window regulator guts must match the glass. I don't know if there are any other differences.

There is a diode on the back of horn relay plug. I believe it is part of radio noise suppression. when it goes bad, I think it grounds out the relay. Cutting the diode wire may solve the problem. It worked for me.

The earlier windows have a different and smaller slot for those little wheels in the window regulator. I would stick to correct year.

There is a heat shield above the starter that can fray the starter lead .

My guess is you have a fuel leak down in fuel filter. By new improved housing. OEM surplus. Lots of old threads on this. Air in the system will cause a surges. It will slowly get worse. Could be other air leak in fuel system, but the filter housing is the first I would check.

If you have the numbers on the capacitor, whatever it is for, you can probably get a replacement from Grainger.com industrial supply, or some other outfit that sells commercial electronics. Gernerally, a puff smoke is a good indicator that the part is fried.

The advice above is good. I also always buy a HD commercial grade flasher unit, the two pronged thing on the lower fuse box,(the other one up top is for emergency flashers.a HD unit is fine for there as well) the regular cheep ones are less than $5, the good ones are $15 - 20, well worth it...