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The easiest way would be to have new cables made that run from each individual battery to the big junction blocks on the firewall. That way, there's no confusion. Positive on top, negative on bottom. Later, Joe

Glad to see that it was the starter after all. Sounds nice... Later, Joe

The CUCV TM is worthless for the 1031... all the contact maintenance stuff is covered under a TM that's still Distro B which means we civilians can't get it. Later, Joe

If the solenoid wire was unhooked, it's definitely a starter problem. My guess would be that the bendix is sticking and causing the contacts to stay closed. You might be able to get away with just having the solenoid and/or bendix cleaned, but you might just want to have the starter rebuilt to...

The wiring for a 6B is dirt simple, and compatible with the Chevy. I'm assuming that you are changing to a 12V system. Take the purple wire that runs out of the main harness from the firewall behind the engine and hook it to the starter solenoid. Take the pink wire that runs up the engine...

I have a straight, rust free frame under my parts 1009 up here in CO that I would let go reasonably. Replacing the body isn't too hard, but is time consuming and a pain because of the size of the parts involved. Drop me an E-mail to jhinson0(*that's a zero*) at comcast dot net because my PM box...

Both alternators are 12V and should put out 14V at idle. If they are more than that, the regulator in that alternator is bad. The alternators on both sides are isolated ground alternators to simplify keeping spares for the military. I would highly recommend going through the wiring harness and...

1) Set your Volt/Ohm meter to the 'Ohm' setting (upside down horseshoe symbol). Touch one of the leads (doesn't matter which) to the hex head (glow plug body) and the other to the glow plug terminal. The reading you will get is a measure of resistance to the flow of electricity. Open or no...

I would have to disagree with you DH, the fusible links are not identified in the manuals by number. And if he doesn't know what he's looking for and/or is not familiar with wiring diagrams, it won't help much. If you do know the manuals better than I do and there is a description and rating for...

I think wallew has a source for the actuator (if that's what you're looking for), drop him a PM. Later, Joe

He wasn't saying to get an adjustable vacuum pump, there is an adjustable vacuum modulator on the transmission that you can adjust as well. Later, Joe

I don't have a registered account at CK5 so I can't see the thread you posted, but I understand what you're saying now. I was big into XJs about 9 years ago and know exactly what you're talking about now that you explained it. Later, Joe

Ok, maybe I missed something so I'll ask... what is the "XJ" steering shaft swap? I'm assuming it's a Jeep Cherokee shaft, but why is it better? And, you don't have to turn the switch to on, just to unlock. (Turn it off with the shifter in 'R' or 'D') And there is probably a lift on the truck...

If ALL of the 12V power is gone, you probably popped the main fusible link that is in the line from the battery to the diamond shaped junction block above the master cylinder. Later, Joe

The NP203 is a big heavy chain driven transfer case that is full time 4wd (Think the same as a HMMWV) that has no 2wd mode. Both axles are driven all the time with a differential in the middle to prevent driveline bindup. This is why there are no hubs to lock and unlock in the front. The NP205...

It's easy to figure out... there are two large terminals, one goes to the resistor block on the firewall and one goes to the glow plugs. The small blue wire is the ground for the controller and the pink/black wire is the positive. And the small diameter orange wire should go to the same...

Check your glow plugs with a multimeter to make sure that they are still good. You can also check the voltage on the glow plug side of the relay to make sure that the resistor on the firewall is dropping the voltage properly to 15V or less when the plugs are warming up. If it's above 15, there...

The controller cards only 'go out' if you neglect your GP system for a long time. Other than failed plugs allowing 18+ volts to go to a part rated for 12V for an extended period of time which causes said part to fail, the controller cards are pretty reliable. My two residue trucks both had...

The 880 series has a full time transfer case. That means that there is a differential in the transfer case which divides power between the front and rear axles without binding. What this means is that if the front driveshaft is gone, the power will go to the front output shaft (the path of least...

There are only two places where the starter is sent the signal to start. It's either in the ignition switch on top of the column, or the relay. Later, Joe