Search results

That's a little further down than you needed to go, but it is an option. The bulbs are in quarter turn sockets that just twist into the back of the cluster. The cluster is kind of hard to get out of the dash itself, especially if the dash pad is still installed. You kind of have to wiggle it...

The easiest way to check this is to go from the ground stud to the case with a ohmmeter. If it is anything but infinite ohms, it's not an isolated ground. If they are both isolated grounds, tell him to install them. Later, Joe

If he imports it from Mexico, the sales and customs documents should be enough to get a title in most states. It won't be a cakewalk, but it can be done if he gets proper ownership documents from the seller. Later, Joe

Well, the technical answer for function/purpose is: Measures temperature of engine / to determine if the glow plugs are required and the duration of the glow Measures voltage on glow plug side of relay / to determine if the glow plug system is functioning Actuates glow plug relay / to warm the...

The rattle when first started is probably the cold timing advance, once warm, the engine should slow down and quiet down. Later, Joe

**Zombie thread alert** Later, Joe

Fuel gauge, Speedo, Voltmeter and heater controls all have lights. The bulbs are the 194 size bulbs available at any auto parts store. Sometimes just reaching behind and turning the little bulb holders will make a better connection. Later, Joe

To answer the question about why the gauges are required unless you get a stand-alone or reflashed computer for the Dodge common rail Cummins, the system is all computer controlled on the CANbus (Controller Area Network) system, the gauge cluster is actually a computer and the ECU is looking for...

The hard starting sounds like air in the fuel lines. Ether will burn out glow plugs if it is used while they are hot so that might be an issue too, but let's focus on one problem at a time. Besides, it's hard to troubleshoot air in fuel issues when the engine won't turn over. :) My Suburban has...

Yea, first step should be to test the starter. See if it is throwing the drive bendix out or not. Second step, if you have a helper, disconnect the purple wire from the starter and turn the key to start. Have the helper verify that you are getting 24V at the purple wire. Also, while you are...

First off, where did you get the new starter? Did you make sure to get a 24V starter? The CUCV is not a K30 when talking about starters and alternators. I would be surprised if Autozone could test a 24V starter. Later, Joe

I have used the air governor on my 816 once in all the time I've had it. (my controls on the back are frozen up). It didn't make a significant difference in how the crane worked, so I just continue to use it at idle. For the crane, use 4 or 3, the rear winch is like the front, use whatever gear...

Yes, your pic is correct. 24V plugs wont work because the small orange wire from the glow plug relay is a voltage sense wire for the controller and needs 12V. Otherwise it will burn out the card Later, Joe

Your mechanic can change one wire and get 12V to the glow plug system. Pull the wire from the resistor block on the firewall and rewire it from the glow plug relay to the diamond shaped terminal block directly above the glow plug relay/master cylinder. That will feed the relay with 12V just like...

Where did you get the pump? Could it be a 6.5 pump or one that is 'turned up' for a turbo? It definitely sounds like it's overfueling. You might want to take it out on the interstate or drive it on some roads with some hills that would work the engine some and see if it calms down. If you have...

I have an 83 6.2 burby 4x4 with a 700R4 from the factory. The half ton diesels got the 700, the 3/4 and 1 tons got the 400. I THINK the 1/2 tons had an option for the 400, but I'm not sure. The 700R4 is not electronically controlled. It has very simple wiring for the TC lockup, that's it. The...

If you decide to part the burby body out, I'm interested in some stuff for my CUCV-burby Later, Joe

Well, thanks for trying. I have a uShip ad up right now, hopefully I can get a reasonable bid to get it out here. Thanks, Joe

Well, that's just my luck... and work got in the way of leaving yesterday so I'm really in a bind now. Later, Joe

If it is a 'standard' Ford relay like is on almost every Ford vehicle from the 60s/70s, that relay is grounded through the mount. You need to put the purple/white 12V source wire to the "S" terminal on the relay and connect the black ground wire to the mounting ear on the relay. The "I" terminal...