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You might want to try a junkyard. I have a older Volvo that wore a hole in one of the trans lines. The parts stores couldn't get new ones. I pulled them at a pick-n-pull.
I recently replaced mine. I don't use heat, so I can't attest to how well it works. I can say that it is the exact same size as the original. As someone stated earlier, the inlet & outlet are just slightly moved and the strap doesn't quite fit right. I just bent the strap a little and it all...
I put some around the holes on the firewall and then wrapped the inlet an outlet pipes. It seems to work well, thanks for the suggestion. It came in a big roll, so I might go back and put some on the box itself.
I've had my heater core out for a while, it was leaking and I don't need heat. I'm tired of the extra noise coming through the open holes on the firewall, so I've finally gotten around to replacing it. Local parts store had the core, but nobody knows anything about the seal.
The -20 lists part...
My only guess would be a bad connection, either in the alternator or along the circuit somewhere. See if you still have 14 at the back of the alt when your Gen 1 light is on. I guess you just need to determine wether it's the alternator or the circuit.
Well I haven't done any calculating but, since my Gen 1 light came on 2 weeks ago or so, the truck has been started 6 times. When its off the front battery is still reading 12.5, so 6 starts plus 2 weeks of sitting hasn't put a dent in the battery's charge. I'm thinking that one of the little...
Similar thing happened to me. When I bought my 1028 a year ago I didn't know anything about CUCV's except there was a truck and a blazer. I thought all the trucks were '08's. The seller that I bought it from didn't know anything about it either, he didn't even advertise it as MV. It was just...
I get what y'all are saying. I've picked up on the fact that converting to 12v is somewhat poo-pooed on, if for no other reason than it deviates from what is collectively known about. I've steered clear for that reason.
This is mostly just musing. It seems like less of a modification if you...
So I'm currently having alternator troubles and it got me thinking. I live in South Texas where it's hot and sunny all year long, so I would love to have A/C. One option is to convert to 12v system, freeing up an alternator bracket for A/C stuff.
I've seen people on threads here talking about...
Since Gen 1 light first came on, the truck has been started 5 or 6 times. When the engine is off, both batteries read 12.5v. With engine running, rear battery reads 14.5v, but front battery still reads 12.5v. It appears the front battery isn't getting a charge, but it also hasn't gone down at...
Yes, I ordered the combo set so I could rebuild both. I've only rebuilt driver's alt since Gen 1 is the light that is on. I'll rebuild passenger side alt at some point, like you say, for peace of mind, however I don't have peace of mind after rebuilding Gen 1 because the light is still on.
Ok, so I got my rebuild kit from cucvelectric.com. I rebuilt My driver's side alternator. Pretty simple process. Alternator is back in. Gen 1 light is still on. Back to square one.
There is 12+ coming out of the alternator, the old one was probably working too, but it didn't hurt to rebuild...
FREAK'N SWEET!!! If you got the stuff, do it. It's a definite improvement that makes the truck more functional, supper low end if you really need it and good top end if you want to get where you're going in a more timely fashion. I would definitely pay more for a CUCV with a 4500 already set up.
That is not the TV Cable Bracket for a 6.2 diesel. As was stated above, the bracket is 6.2 specific. It is a factory part that is no longer made. As far as I have found, there is not a store online that makes or sells them, auction sites and junkyards are it.
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