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https://youtu.be/YogcVXC6BQs

Don't try to reinstall a factory resistor...it will just fail and catch fire20 years and no fires yet. Ridden hard and put away wet. @ different units and no fires yet. It can't be luck.

I never added anything but diesel/heating oil and a bit of conditioner in winter. No chain saw oil, no transmission fluid, maybe some heating oil and kerosene. A lot of contaminated diesel fuel on occasion. (unknowingly, and knowingly) No issues after 22 years. I have changed a few injection...

I suspect you may have a fraying throttle cable????? and check he linkage if it is binding at the throttle pedal on the floor. I have removed and cleaned a few throttle pedals. They are dusty bone dry at this point. Good Grease in the groove and you should be good. The throttle cable different...

Battery leaking will NOT make the generator light illuminate. Did you check the output with a voltmeter? That should be putting out about 28 volts.

No pictures. They are not view-able. Not sure what is wrong. I think worth every penny is a bit premature. Maybe that statement can be added when it lasts a long while. Like 30 years. My one truck still has the OEM radiator in it and keeps on going. Glad you got what you wanted. Have a great...

That always works also.

My experience has been it will only bind on ether and not start if NO diesel is present. I use a whiff on occasion. Extreme conditions call for extreme measures. Not recommended on a daily basis.

Light mate with B/O light wiring configuration. Not likely. Get some other plugs and use them. That way you don't have to cut the harness.

That's what I thought. That would have been to simple. I heard of big diesels and a torch being cranked over in winter and being started. That was a WW II story about German Panzers in winter time. I think there may be some validity to that tale. Makes sense.

I don't think so. Diesels are very fussy with fuel distribution.

You have my best thoughts on this subject. That is why I replied. Of course I would do it right. But taking all this into account. I would also get it functional. And without any delay. I feel you will be fine. Do NOT discard the original heads at this point. You may need to have one of the sent...

I would think it needs to be misted and under pressure to fire. Unlike a gasoline engine. Never heard of that but it may be possible.

Duly Noted. But I think he is concerned with cost and down time. We all know the obvious. I still ask where are the original heads? Would have been much less expensive to have them machined. But we are beyond that now. And no energy is spent thinking things out. That is the easy part. You are...

Shop up my way. I know of a few.

How would that work?

I am a bit confused. Your avatar says Vermont and you show Ohio tags. Is it Vermont or Ohio? Are you a Secret Agent Man? You know what's coming? https://youtu.be/sdC9P58hJT8

Do you think the original holes would need filled/welded in, then redrill the 90 degree holes? This a helpful hint at best. NO I would not worry about welding the holes and redrilling. I would get them drilled that the studs fit. I would ask for $$$ assistance from the seller. I doubt they...

I have to agree with that suggestion. I would do something. An intake manifold is much cheaper then tearing into that engine again. I would make it work. The right stuff is a great sealer. All that intake does is centralize an air intake position that allows filtration of incoming air. It has no...

I looked back. I may have missed it. What happened to the original heads? Were the deemed junk at some point?