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In the case of this truck that was a turbo conversion, I use the OEM pancake compressor that goes on the OEM compressor bracket, I throw away the red dot condensor and use an M1151/2 under fender mounted condensor. So the evaporator is red dot.

there are variants for Export they did/do, I’ve also seen them, but from my research it wasn’t and isn’t issued this way for US military. Having the condensor on the radiator stack is fine, it’s done that way in the H1 models. You just need move the heat from the coils as in any A/C system...

current production trucks don’t have the condensor under the hood, the right fender houses the condensor for the front A/C, the left fender houses the condensor for the rear A/C. The only thing under the Is the compressor.

While many of you don’t like the red dot system, it’s unfortunately one of the few that actually work to cool the interior of a hmmwv. reddot systems are Industrial and very Heavy duty. you need to do research on how A/C works, you have to look at the system your considering and perform some...

Standard location for the toggle switch for IR lamp

It’s a 4L80e, not 4L60e...verify that your transmission lamp goes off after startup

Why not? You said you had another truck, it’s one cannon plug

Did you swap TCM’s?

Your attempting to convert your truck into a GMV, I would just sell the hatch and sponsons to fund purchasing a GMV C-pillar, or install an M1165 rear wall and add the rear window.

Your regulator is failing on the 60amp...simple fix.

I haven’t found anything available, but frankly, for the time and effort, it’s not worth it. Your going to install it one time in the life of the truck most likely. there are other crossover part numbers and they were used in civilian vehicles as well, but so far every crossover number shows no...

no need, that 14v Tap is 50 Amps....for a cell phone charger you can just tap directly off the rear battery.

unless you haven’t done so, that’s why from the factory, the starter and battery pos are encased in RTV, to prevent said corrosion. And no...many folks upgrade to the 200amp because the 60amp is garbage, plus you must have a 100-200 to run A/C, so many folks never use the 14v tap. The other...

Couple things here. The winch per the TM wires direct too the starter pos and neg. The 14v tap runs too the rear battery positive to prevent imbalance on 4L80 equipped truck. if your running a 3 speed truck, you can just abandon the 14v tap, or run it too the rear battery Positive and run all...

Sorry, I don’t see this holding, I’ve seen mounting tabs break from regular usage. especially if the rear block support is not added, that’s why it was added to the exhaust stud. The problem is going to be when it gives on the freeway, it’s going to be quite a mess under the hood.

I throw them into the hot tub to find leaks....

You needing an AC delete wheel, what style serp do you have...there are 2

Trans relay has 4 wires, 2 are 24v, the other 2 are 12v to TCM. upon turning the start switch to run, it sends 24volts to the relay, the 12v relay in turn closes, sending 12v to the TCM. when it’s stuck on after you turned it off, there is power still getting too the TCM, thus the trans lamp is...

he is talking about the trans lamp on an A2 truck. Reset your TCM by unplugging it.

The red gear is for the 242 Tcase