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Don't use stainless steel fasteners on a hmmwv...the aluminum and stainless are not compatible.

One is ribbed and one is smooth.. if they were backwards, once the engine warms up the voltage to the cold advance would disappear and kill the motor. NEVER use starting fluid on these motors...you could also still have air in the system that has not been purged. pull the drain back line of the...

Correct on the center link, it's a non wear item if maint is kept up, for the most part, but I've seen the hole ovaled out due to excessive play. I have seen the same on geared hubs due to loose castle nuts on ball joints, steering arm covers due to loose castle nuts. It's amazing how tight the...

I called that one, I should play the horses at golden gate fields. Does that look normal to you? LOL....you need to download the TM's, All of the PMCS and troubleshooting and diag. Procedures are in there. I can't stress this enough.

You are spending a ton of time and money fabricating a nightmare......the short answer is No, the trans will default into limp mode. there is a reason for these sensors, if any one of them fails, the "electronic" transmission will not function correctly.

Show me how a 92-93 Hummer H1 is any different then a HMMWV. Other then maybe the steering column. show me how a 41 slat grill or M35a2 is more safe or roadworthy then a HMMWV. the entire thing is total BS. It's now starting to happen in calif, they are referring you to Calif air resources...

Classic pitman and idler arms worn out or loose...I would check ball joints too. to many newbies just jump in and go drive without ever checking these major components. Could end up in a real bad situation

ummm, you could try just lifting them out. The ones secured with retainers will require removing the retainers

Te factory holes are not sufficient to allow for the truck to drain correctly, or fast enough when lots of water is introduced during fording. Add to that floor padding, garbage, dirt, rocks etc and the truck won't drain.

If you want to reproduce it, unplug the TDM at the 2 prong connector at the Cadillac valve solenoid,the fan defaults to engaged when unplugged.

Working as designed...the noise goes away because no more fluid is flowing to the fan clutch. The solenoid closed

Trans is checked hot in neutral....

What dilvoy said...l

Montana now...6-? Weeks I'm told ,that's after they get the S97 from DLA, as the SF97 has to be submitted to Montana DMV for the Title...

Assuming it's a GP truck, I would assume that equipment is supposed to be removed.

First time buyer or your 2nd go around? It takes 2-3 weeks the 2nd time....

a little something on these ground harnesses , never seen one installed in an issue hmmwv...while it can't hurt, I do wonder whether it helps any. glow plugs, I always start with new...you have no idea how old the ones installed are, that and the S3 conversion...no issues. As I've posted...

3/4-16 is fine thread

I don't believe it's a coarse thread...

Which ones? The 4 in the deck or the 2 on the dash? Either way, they aren't conventional rivnuts...not sure what they are called, but they are pressed and crimped form the sides at like 3 or 4 points, they are a real PITA once they fail.