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You won't know till you take it off the speedo adapter at the case, I would also remove the speedo adapter, I see a lot the keys break, as they are supposed too...what I do is test from the taste forward...so take your drill and do the same test, that will check the cable...cables are cheap and...

Got it done...hardest part was getting the mag drill out and drilling 3 holes. Also, toss the two 1.50in bolts...they need to be 1in or 1 1/4, probably made for the universal mount. I used the template. At first on air up everything whet fine, but when I pressed on the brake pedal I had nothing...

I would run them along and above the right frame rail direct to the starter POS and the ground shunt on the body. you can also run the ground direct to the right rear engine head bolt, as they did for the ground on the driver side head.

This is where the TM is your friend...you must make sure 1.25in bolt is locktited back in with a lock washer and torqued to spec...I check all trucks that come in...99% of the time it's loose or the lock washer broke off...and that will eat your outer spur gear bearing.

You have to make sure you you have a red gear in the tcase for a 242.you will have to pull the speedo adapter out to check. Also, you need to set the speedo adapter to the correct setting...it's labeled on the tcase. I,don't know what year you have, but most early were 2:56, A2's had 2:73 and...

The problem is belt jump off, not breaking the gen...the first feeble attempt was adding a plate to the front of the PS pulley. I've never had the issue on any of of them...I have all 3 setups.

i have 3 employees, me, myself and I, we sleep and eat together, work the same hours, even share the same wife...lol no, just me....thank you.

There is no clutch setup for the v-belt setup...

clutch pulley only works on serpintine setup...and that clutch pulley assy is expensive as he**. you will have use the pulley supplied in the upgrade kit.

None that im aware of...new and used 200amp will just be the price diff. the ones I see refurb look brand new.

While this is somewhat dated....it has some very good insight and info on the reset program for all services. As well as production numbers for contracts....they throw millions around like its confetti. http://www.defenseindustrydaily.com/the-usas-2009-hummer-orders-05278/

Her are some finished pics...as well as a small pile of old parts.

Just don't install the roof...the roof installs on top the roof support assy. It's s skeleton basically and the roof is the skin.

Let me add, before the GP trucks, I would have rebuilt a body this way, did several. But now that body's are cheap and plentiful...it's not economically feasible. I was able to get 10k or more for a rebuilt body.

I would have have recovered the good parts off of it...and that wasn't much. Fenders, 1/4 deck panels, D-beam and a few other items...it got new floors, entire A-pillar area, new battery box floor, left and right rocker panals, new rear seat bases' new B-beam uprights and sails. I still have to...

The A-pillar was toast...but it ws replaced...those are not that bad to do. Done severL of them. The D-beam is a PITA.

I was trying to load the other finish pics....having issues. it can be seen on my retired war horses Facebook page.

that won't make a difference....it's for a longer radiator, the engine sits in the same spot on an ECV.

This body was a wreck....but after about 1000 rivets, 6 tubes of body panal adhesive and a ton of labor...she is back together. while it was cheaper to just source another body, this was for a customer who is building it as a tribute to his fallen comrades he served with....just needs final paint.

well that answers that! Lol...that's the first I've ever seen of any additional pics of that build. thank you sir...