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Off to my dark place again I see.

Someone gets a kit and not need there inner wheel hub seals I will buy them from you.

Ouch. You need a Detroit locker while you got it apart.

No your not missing anything. Just bothered Steve 6X6x6 again and he said I was ok as the way the seal works. The way he described it the seal rubber does not run around the spindle the way most do. The seal spins inside of its self and the rubber on the spindle stays put. Looks like I might...

I know it does not make sense. On both sides of the axle the inner seal stayed on the spindle with the locking ring. The seal did not even spin. I tried to ease one off but I would have damage it and the seal. The TM does show the hub seal in the hub and says to remove it. Nothing about that...

If you read post 6 again I said the inner seal is held on the spindle with a steel retainer. Here you can see in the pic the steel retainer. So there would be no way to put the steel retainer on after the hub and bearing. I don't know if all FMTV's are this way but that's what I found on mine.

No the way the inner seal is set up it installed on mine it is held in place by a steel ring on the spindle. Yes on 5 ton 809 and 939 series it is. Here I got the groovy cool tool Steve showed use how to make and I had a damage cap. It took four tries to get the correct shims in but believe I...

I cleaned the hub face and cross slots with a scotch bright pad and then repacked bearing. I went with extra grease in the hub area and race.

Well being Knee deep it was silly not to go all the way to my neck. Good thing as the inner bearing had old and very little grease. I am starting to warm up to the FMTV as this sure is going easy with the way the drum and stuff is easy to get apart. The pic show how the inner hub seal is held on...

Great glad you got it figured. I think the O ring that is listed is to thick. The ones I got with the Ambac Heads was thin and I never had problems with the tighten up of the control assembly. I feel to thick and it puts the control in a bind when we torque it down to specs.

I will say maybe but let me check.

I cried for a week after my tractor and trailer did not win in Dec. Sorry I don't want to go to my dark place again.

Please read this and if you read it twice I will leave a surprise under your pillow. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?116454-LDS465-1-Multifuel-Engine-Troubleshooting-Manual

What is the news. Was thinking if you have not found the problem then start simple. Recheck timing your timing. Both timing marks on and Head will be one tooth to the rear.

Yea think this is where my noise was coming from. No CTIS, I will just stay on road and out of the sugar sand. I chose not to go all the way in and just check the outside gearing. That's why I left the tire on to save time and my back. Next time I will repack inner wheel bearings or just remove...

As per TM take the nut down to 50 foot pounds. Back off 1/4 then tighten to 10-20 foot pounds. Then we see if the pins on the nut line up to the holes in the inner side gear. If not do not tighten any more but you can loosen the bearing nut up to one spline tooth to get inner side gear to line...

First of all why do the let someone that does not know what there doing work on the axles. Thanks to Steve I started digging into the front end. Right side was looking ok but drivers side had fine metallic tint to the oil. Here I found the so called mechanic left out the thrust bearing washer...

I just ordered the shim kits and looks like they might be on sale.https://www.finditparts.com/products/39624/arvin-meritor-kit4715

Can't fall out as it is as the ends are to big.