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You sure about that the pots have to dump the air fast so when you let off the brake peddle there is no lag time.

Also thinking about it I myself would not want the parking brake on the dolly. Bad things happen when a parking brake pancake blows.

Guess this is the problem building a dolly. We look at the air system but in most cases it goes that a tractor is used. I might be wrong but would seem all that is needed is a relay and a quick air dump plus air tank on the dolly. As said do away with parking brake or as said use emergency air...

Just adjust the jack correct and there is no problem. You walk them off and on reinstall you adjust height so the upper part of the rim just slides on when the tire is cocked in then jack it up more to get the tire on. No tools needed other than jack and lug wrench or just have the old lady do it.

Or just do away with the parking brake system on the dolly. The only problem I could see is the dolly has to fit the lunette to pintle correct height The single axle dolly can hook to any height pintle but the tandem has to have a arm the is free to go up and down with different pintle heights...

There is one rule I like to go buy when off road. Know that if I get stuck that it is going to take a truck twice my size to get me out.

That's going to be called more than a 5 ton and good job so far. My little dolly is called a 6 ton for the 6 ton trailers. Think your pintle rating is what you should call it.

I am not going to worry that the sky is falling just yet. We don't have titles for trailers under 1500lbs. Per reading this post we still can insure and register the MV's with the new law. Is there not other states that are non title for some things. Maybe there system needs to down size and...

The way the fitting is looks like air in only as your hose would be backwards for tools and such.

No I like my bearing's uncooked or raw. The microwave make them tuff to chew. Now the wad of grease I put in the oven to watch it lay down for a test.

Rusty the microwave is not as good as the oven set at 120*. This is the lowest I have seen my grease packed bearings run on the hub. Now if one got the bearings to tight or is overloading the truck then well you get the Idea. Razor did you pack your hub. I buy the grease in 5 Gal. bucket's

I like the troubleshooting the 465. It is not listed as a TM but has all a girl needs to know. Lets just get it figured why it will not get to 2600. Fix now tweek later.

Also if you do have to do or when you do the fuel filter The secondary calls for a NAPA # 3512 and so does the final. Then up grade to the final is NAPA#33540 and it is a 6 micron where the 3512 is a 10 micron.

OP said the RPM's will only go to 2000. They need to go to 2600 no load. Start with the easy if you don't like easy then read the troubleshooting manual that Warthog posted. First test load no load very simple and as Doghead says read your TM's first then report back with your problem. Know your...

Respectfully no you start with a no load test then if it does make 2600rpm then we move to filters.

Agreed 20k way to much. Try and do a no load test and see if the motor will do 2600rpm.

Well yes. If you watch what you are doing there is not problem. There was a case where the OP did not put the fuel control in right and the collar pin was to the rear instead of being forward. Here when the motor started instead of going to idle it went to wide open. OP's fault and no excuse...

Not silly. Most people over think the IP. It does not take anything but to inspect the fuel control under the shut down cover once and a while. Does not need valves or some kind of air dam. The run away would most likely happen if the shut off cable was left in the run position. When the truck...

It's easer to bar it over at the jack shaft.