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That explains where those scratch marks came from on the glass of the '85 K-5 civilian model I had way back when. Good catch!

My guess is; the previous owner was a fan of the Yenko cars from the late '60's.

There is another thread running now with a similar problem description. Both seem to be related as to the symptoms.

That would be my guess also. It's certainly what it sounds like. If you check it out and confirm it's the mounts I wonder how much better the urethane mounts would be? That might be the direction I would go with.

Did that hose & air cleaner assembly help to reduce some of the noise? Would think is should.

Intake manifold, or just the air cleaner and cold air hose?

I'm not surprised at this. I know when you port & polish the heads/intakes on small block chevy's they will scream all the way up through very high RPM's. The blueprinting really helps at these higher RPM's to keep the engine together. Then add some tuned headers and you're off to the races.

Porting is where you match the intake runners to the heads so that the port dimensions are the same on each. Any small ledges or lips between the two create flow disturbances and can negatively impact air volume or flow patterns. This is a grinding operation. Most of the time where I have seen...

Someone sometime ago on here mentioned Odyssey batteries as an option. I've looked into them, but have not purchased any yet until I finally get a '09. They appear to be a well built battery, but they're not cheap. Just an FYII.

I watched it just to see what happened. It went right through the deadline into overtime. Last bid was $3K, when the clock ran out.

You know, with all of the new retro cars that have been coming out in the last few years wouldn't it be a hoot if GM started producing a new CUCV as a limited edition? DuraMax engine & Allison drive train, backed up by HD differentials & independent front & rear suspension w/ 4-wheel discs. I...

Has anyone used those plug-in fusible links? They look like a larger version of the fuses in the main fuse box, but these are in-line. From what I have looked at once you wire in the fusible link holder, you then insert the fusible link itself into the holder. Then if one burns out, you can...

I found the following part numbers for the heaters: ZeroStart #3100057 (600 Watt) or 3100059 (1000 Watt). If I copied these correctly, which one did you use? Thanks!

Here's a link to some I found recently. I have not tried them yet since I'm still waiting on some things to fall into place. Personally, I don't see the need for PALS webbing, however, a back pouch would be nice.

Warthog, looking at the schematic you posted here it appears there are 6 total fusible links in the engine compartment. With the advance of electrical gear/switches today is there an equivalent device that could be used to replace the links? The reason I ask is it possible to use a circuit...

I believe you can ask your agent to put a special rider (I think that's the term) on the vehicle to insure it for what you want, within reason. I'm in the process of trying to pick up a M1009 and asked an agent for a quote. Told him to value it at $15K as it would be a restored retired MV...

Not to mention the impact of the aftermarket A/C condenser. That can dump a lot of heat into the radiator and it only gets worse as the ambient temperature increases.

They could also fall down and hurt themselves too.:grin: I've had a truck stolen before. It was found by the police in a nearby parking lot (a few days later) running. Apparently the thief's were in the process of jacking another vehicle and got caught. Still lost some handtools, etc.

Where did you find this? I've been looking for a copy and either can't find it or don't know where to look. Any help much appreciated!

I haven't been through this yet, but have been looking around for info. Here's a link to something I found that might be helpful also. Since I'm planning a move right now, this is not a pressing issue for me at the moment, but did want to share what little I've found. Hope it helps you.