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"Fully processed and road legal titled in Wisconsin" That adds considerable value.

I also recommend centering the front differential and being able to carry a single replacement shaft. All four corners of my Humvee use a standard 12k shaft.

A lot of people just bypass those two contacts and crimp the wires together.

Your fan will not turn on until the temp reaches 220 degrees, then it should decrease or at least not rise about 220 too much. I would do a flush and replace the thermostat. Also, the sending units for the fan clutch and gauge are separate, and the actual gauge is not usually very accurate.

I prefer the KDS green box....always had good luck with it.

yeah...I would run the 6TL's if I could get them for $125 as well...where do you get them for that?

http://www.ceniehoff.com/productdetail.asp_Q_catID_E_152_A_subCatID_E_254_A_productID_E_1437_A_skuID_E_1360 (alternator) Some basic regulator instructions: http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/II228A_uid10302014938411.pdf Still hunting on the wiring harness side....looks like...

Yeah...it has a lifting eye; it weighs 120 pounds!

How to test this Niehoff alternator 570 amps 28VDC 76761-N1609 & -N3240 regulator I could not find much info on this unit other than its one of the biggest ones they make. I have some water rights on an old hydro mill and would like to play with this a little bit. Does anyone have any wiring...

The official base towing capacity is rated around 3500 pounds.

Take a look at it when someone else tries to start it and see if its moving as mentioned above. Also, spot on with the "bendix"...that arm throws out the gear to engage. A little penetrating oil would not hurt either. If you end up dropping it....check the flexplate/flywheel teeth. Would...

Old 12 bolts: -457 or the -458 (http://www.mcmaster.com/ Part# 9452K451 457 14" x 14 1/2" 13.975" x 14.525" 2 9452K451) New (red): -383

I just got a cheap runner out of PA. I have almost enough spare parts on the shelf to make it complete. I am sure they will get a bit cheaper, but the bar has come WAY down sicne the 1st couple rounds.

Nice! I had 5 in my yard at once. Old lady down the road called codes compliance...but I had SF-97's for them all and plated them the next day and made them all legal.

I think I have taken better care of mine that the military would have. I sometimes even give it a kiss goodnight. And, it has various pieces of armor I have collected....oh yeah....and a 6.5 turbo diesel and 4l80e with a good Virginia State title. It's just my opinion, but unless you have a...

They make UV dye you can put in and hit it with a blacklight. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/A-C-Pro-1-oz-engine-and-transmission-dye/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=210225 I use it all the time. Get a nice LED black light flashlight...and you can follow the trail.

Thanks for the quick answers...I pretty much knew I was going to have to pull it. I will update on my findings. I am going to put a bottle of UV dye in the motor (have another small leak anyway)....if the drip glows the blacklight...I know where it started from and will give me a head start.

I got her pretty cheap...always had a leak that appears to be coming from inside the bellhousing. Before I go and pull the whole Tcase and transmission, am I overlooking any miracle, more simple fix? I am assuming rear main seal...leaving a pretty good puddle of engine oil now.

I have done this a few ways (from a airline fitting to cardboard and duct tape). I think this is the easiest. Drill a hole at .453" or .625" (standard sizes)...insert a standard valve stem. I hook it up to a C02 tank regulated to 2-3 psi, but any regulated air source would work. It makes...

Triple check your ground wires, and maybe look into putting an auxillary ground harness in.