Project Wild Weasel M1009

[cucvrus]

Last night I made a little progress. The lift kit springs are a huge PITA. I replaced the pinion seal and yoke. The original yoke had a broken bolt on it. Moving along. I hope to get the rear axle under the truck tonight.

 

[cucvrus]

Today after working 11 hours at my ft job I made a simple goal to get the rear axle installed and get the vehicle up on jack stands under the rear axle. My goal as met and the axle is back in the vehicle. My goal was met early and I went out to eat supper with friends

 

[WWRD99]

Last night I made a little progress. The lift kit springs are a huge PITA. I replaced the pinion seal and yoke. The original yoke had a broken bolt on it. Moving along. I hope to get the rear axle under the truck tonight.View attachment 926462

What size lift is it with a base spring that big?

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[cucvrus]

I have no idea of what lift it is. I am just installing it. Normally I remove lift kits for local car dealers and return vehicles to stock. 2 years ago, I removed 2 lowering kits from vintage square body 2WD pick-ups and a 454 Suburban. I returned them to stock. People add this lifting and lowering kits to classics, and they don't realize how they are devaluing the vehicles for resale. Dealers either choose to send the modified vehicles to auction or return them to stock. The dealer I worked with has since retired and that is looking like a good idea to me lately. Take Care. Be Safe.

 

[Sezzo]

These lift kits hurt my eyes.

 

[cucvrus]

After work I thought I would do some work on the Wild Weasel. I wanted to change the transmission mounts. That wasn’t going as planned. I needed to remove the crossmember because the steel bushings were seized in the mounts. The crossmember bolts needed changed anyway. They were very rusty and lacked the flat washer on both sides. That was easy. I moved onto draining the transfer case. Both plugs were blood tight. That means they weren’t coming out unless I bled trying. That wasn’t happening. I used the 30mm impact socket and BAM. I gave the Milwaukee vise grips another try to get the seal from them output shaft. After many attempts they failed. I used an old beat up pair of Peterson originals and they worked on the first grip. I am letting the transfer case drain until next time I get to work on the truck. Everything went relatively well. Take Care and Be Safe.

 

[cucvrus]

Now I found some Puss I must address going forward. Not a restoration repair but a good strong repair. That would cost lots of time and materials to fix that mess. Take Care.

 

[rtk]

Yup your basic northeast vehicle ridden in the GREAT SALT EATING CONTEST , called winter !!!! You learn how to loosen stuff with lots of HEAT !!! LOL

 

[WWRD99]

After work I thought I would do some work on the Wild Weasel. I wanted to change the transmission mounts. That wasn’t going as planned. I needed to remove the crossmember because the steel bushings were seized in the mounts. The crossmember bolts needed changed anyway. They were very rusty and lacked the flat washer on both sides. That was easy. I moved onto draining the transfer case. Both plugs were blood tight. That means they weren’t coming out unless I bled trying. That wasn’t happening. I used the 30mm impact socket and BAM. I gave the Milwaukee vise grips another try to get the seal from them output shaft. After many attempts they failed. I used an old beat up pair of Peterson originals and they worked on the first grip. I am letting the transfer case drain until next time I get to work on the truck. Everything went relatively well. Take Care and Be Safe.

I know a kid that has nos cross members with the gm number on them still....the random stuff he has is nuts.

 

[cucvrus]

I was working on the Wild Weasel again. Making progress but finding lots of parts onnneed of replacement. I have the rear axle brake line to frame attached. That was a bit of a fight b cause of alignment and the spring wire they put on the steel brake line. That makes it hard to get a line wrench on the fitting. Good Luck. More progress in the works for today. Also more parts on the way to be installed.

 

[cucvrus]

I pressure washed these parts and set them in the sun to dry. I bought 2 cans of Rustoleum rust reformer and gave them 2 good coats. The last I sprayed on heavy and left them dry over night and into the morning sun. They look great and I am going to install them with the old parts on them. When the new parts arrive I will install all the new parts. This keeps everything in order and even I need to reference assembly’s as I assemble them. Sometimes I get them with errors and I quickly discover it. I had seen many directly from the military with the brake shoes on backwards and both big shoes on one side. Once I had one that had 4 big shoes on the truck. Explain that one. I wonder which M1009 had the 4 small shoes. Anyway have a Great Day. I hope my parts get here soon.

 

[cucvrus]

Made a great deal of progress on the rear brakes and have the transmission crossmember back in with the Energy Suspension mounts. Still waiting on a right rear Ebrake cable and need to check the condition of the rear brake drums. Take my word when doing the rear brakes opt to change all the hardware and the self adjusters. It beats the pants off of that old rusty worn out weak hardware, remember the big shoe goes toward the back. Have a Great 4th and Be Safe.

 

[rtk]

Great work Rick , Have a safe and Happy Fourth , God Bless America

 

[cucvrus]

I was outside braving the heat and made some progress on the Wild Weasel. Whenever you remove the rear axles, or the center pin bolt replace the bolt. NEVER use it over no matter what. Not only is the lock tight worn out the pin end can have fractures in it and can fail. The $6. for the bolt is well worth it. I cleaned the axles with Brakecleen and am ready to install them. Also this is the rear differential cover gasket part number. Don't reuse the gasket and waste your time trying Permatex only. But then again, it's not my truck you are working on do as you please. 40+ years and I have learned a few things. I even posted the Felpro part number for you. The drums are back on just for fit and adjustment. I removed them, and pressure washed them. It is over 90 outside and I am tired for the day. I will splash them with Rust reformer before I reinstall them. I want to get the underside buttoned up and get working on the other issues this vehicle has. Back to work tomorrow. Take Care and Be Safe.

 

[cucvrus]

Not a lot of progress but anything going forward is progress. I pressure washed the drums after making sure they were measured and not bell shaped like most are. I was shocked at the price of new drums. They are over $100. US. WOW. They were $40. a few minutes ago. I painted the drums and the rear spring clamp plates. I am about done for today. After 10 hrs in the heat at my FT job I need to take a rest. Sit back and have a Fresca. Take Care and Be Safe. 

 

[WWRD99]

Paint dry time in 108 degree heat is pretty fast!! I was in by noon today.

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[cucvrus]

Todays struggle in the heat. Today I was setting my goal at getting the gate back on and fitting. I have failed. This gate was never right since I received the vehicle to work on it. The gate is on and in place. That is about all I will say. I have the left side Dring brackets, and the outer braces installed. I also have the right side installed. I had a hard time trying to figure out what the issue is with the torque rods. I came in the house and pulled out an old Mitchell collision manual from 30 years ago and think I figured it out. I think the gate has Suburban torque rods in it. I looked up same vintage parts and Blazer and Suburban have different part numbers. Not an easy fix but fixable. I looked up used torque rods online for 1973-1991 Blazer Jimmy and they are $197.00 a set used. I think K5 gate parts are crazy priced. The M1009 has the alignment strikers. The old 1970's gate has no alignment strikers or guides. That is not a huge deal, but the torque rods are a huge deal. I need to get a pair and install them to keep moving. Hacked up vehicles sure can cause an issue and time spent trying to correct these issues adds up quickly. I think I have it figured out. I will fix it next time I get to work on it. I found this in the dirt where I was working. #2 Phillips bit. Take Care and Stay Cool and Safe.

 

[WWRD99]

Looks great!! I used some half inch pex pipe over that spring bolt to keep it from making noise. Covered it in grease. Worked great so far. I just glued the seal on the gate the other day. They make pretty nice gaskets that fit good now. I don't remember them being formed. 3m weather stripping goop in black finished it off.

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[cucvrus]

My paperback Mitchell tells the tale and solves the mystery. And my 7/16” Snap On wrench must be missing for 35 years now.
The torque rods for the rear gate have different part numbers. I cannot be positive, but I think the rear tailgate that is on this M1009 is from the 70's and the torque rods paint does not match the baby blue gate or the dark blue hinges. It appears this M1009 was partially cannibalized and that is entirely possible. I seen many of the CUCV's of all variants cannibalized over the years. I think I can fix this hodge podge of parts. I was shocked at the price of these gate parts. Be Safe and Stay COOL.

 

[cucvrus]

The theory that the torque rods came from a Suburban is proven wrong. I forgot that I had a Suburban gate that I bought early on and have been storing it. That explains the same part number in the Mitchell manual for right and left. Totally different. I am getting old I remembers the layout as soon as I looked at the gate from the Suburban. Take Care. Stay Cool,